90 day race, the pursuit of induction:

[F34R]

I am making a turbo thread to get advice and keep track along the race.

Local FrankM e30 and I are doing a 90 day race starting tomorrow. To see who can finish our 'final build' level first. It is friendly, just a challenge to push us. Once both are finished I believe some safe 'legal' highway pulls are in order.

Me:
M30b35 turbo

HP goal: over 400whp

Hx35 or 40 turbo(buddy has one)
MS2 management(own)
Injector size?
custom twin scroll 6-1 manifold(in works paid)
tial 38mm WGs
Tap block
BOV

What else am I missing?

Frank:

S62b50

Flash, rewire and swap

[ak-]

I am making a turbo thread to get advice and keep track along the race.

Local FrankM e30 and I are doing a 90 day race starting tomorrow. To see who can finish our 'final build' level first.

Me:
M30b35 turbo

HP goal: over 400whp

Hx35 or 40 turbo(buddy has one)
MS2 management(own)
Injector size?
custom twin scroll 6-1 manifold(in works paid)
tial 38mm WGs
Tap block
BOV

What else am I missing?

60lbs for THAT power level.

Intercooler? Guessing it wont fit with your valance, so behind grill?
Same side intercooler? Blocking and putting the intake on the other side of the manifold for a traditional setup.. or you going to get weird with octopus piping all over the engine bay?
Water/air is an option for that too.
T bolt clamps!

Vac lines maybe a vacuum station to figure out with many ports to keep it clean.
Something like this: http://42draftdesigns.com/categories...manifolds.html
Decided on a clutch to take the abuse?
Boost & wideband gauge (Oil monitoring maybe?) Buy one of jawood's gauge holder while you're at it.

Crank case figured out? Venting to atmosphere or routing it back somewhere for vacuum like a preturbo intake elbow with a catch can in between?

Mechanical Boost controller? I like Grimspeed because you can "feel" the clicks to set it. Though Hallman makes a respectable product, but I don't like how it doesn't have any effort to turn the knob which you can mistakenly do I guess.

You're tapping the block instead of the oil pan for the drain? Cool! -10AN minimum
What about your feed/lines? A -4 AN without a restrictor is okay for journal bearing turbo's (which is what you posted).

Guess you have the downpipe figured out.

Colder spark plugs; BPR8ES is copper and some step or two colder than a stock m20 (idk m30). Gapped .025 factory.

Biggest filter you can possibly fit in front of the turbo

Maybe a colder thermostat, or electric fan?



:D I'm bored waiting for dinner.

Goodluck

[toointoxicated60]

tap the block for the drain as big as physically possible.

[F34R]

60lbs for THAT power level.

Intercooler? Guessing it wont fit with your valance, so behind grill?
Behind grill and using a Mishimoto

Same side intercooler?
Not sure what that means...

Blocking and putting the intake on the other side of the manifold for a traditional setup.. or you going to get weird with octopus piping all over the engine bay?
Blocking

Water/air is an option for that too.
T bolt clamps!
Water/air? explain a bit more please

Vac lines maybe a vacuum station to figure out with many ports to keep it clean.
Something like this: http://42draftdesigns.com/categories...manifolds.html
That is really clean looking, but I can make one myself with welding up a box and bungs to brass fittings for the lines. That was my plan anyways.

Decided on a clutch to take the abuse?
I am not sure, I was thinking f1 stage 3 or maybe an OE setup using a late model m30 flywheel and a m5 clutch/pressure. But I think that will have issues holding the power. Thoughts/links?

Boost & wideband gauge (Oil monitoring maybe?) Buy one of jawood's gauge holder while you're at it.
Not sure about brands, but I am trying to keep it on a budget for gauges. I am buying the best stuff for WGs and other bits to do it right.

Crank case figured out? Venting to atmosphere or routing it back somewhere for vacuum like a preturbo intake elbow with a catch can in between?
Guessing this is for boost relief in the block? sorry noob here

Mechanical Boost controller? I like Grimspeed because you can "feel" the clicks to set it. Though Hallman makes a respectable product, but I don't like how it doesn't have any effort to turn the knob which you can mistakenly do I guess.
Whatever will do the job, suggestion?

You're tapping the block instead of the oil pan for the drain? Cool! -10AN minimum
What about your feed/lines? A -4 AN without a restrictor is okay for journal bearing turbo's (which is what you posted).
Is it better to tap the pan? I was just going to drain the oil then tap while using a shopvac to suck up the metal burrs/dust. Then flush the engine a few times with oil.

Guess you have the downpipe figured out.
Of course

Colder spark plugs; BPR8ES is copper and some step or two colder than a stock m20 (idk m30). Gapped .025 factory.

Biggest filter you can possibly fit in front of the turbo

Maybe a colder thermostat, or electric fan?
How cold? and I am using a 16" spal pusher and a puller


:D I'm bored waiting for dinner.

Goodluck

ARP studs are around 260ish on VAC and IE. I found m30 ARP for 100 less on this site, anyone know if they are legit?

http://lightningmotorsports.rpmware.com/arp/arp_head_stud/bolt_kits/2014602/i-61516.aspx

[ak-]

This is a same side intercooler:

To avoid octopus piping on weird throttle body positions like the M30.
Doesn't matter since your boring out the other side though.

This is a water to air intercooler, makes your piping much simpler/less pressure drop/more efficient heat transfer, and conveniently located.


Water circulates through the core of the intercooler, instead of just air like a front mount, making heat transfer more efficient than the standard air-to-air setup everyone uses. People consider this for the m30 because, again, of awkward TB positioning and WAY less piping. I mean look at it!?

I'm using an f1/stg3 and it's holding like 280wtq or something.
Einstein57 is using the same thing (I think) accompanied with their light flywheel and is holding something over 300wtq. M5 and all that jazz is awesome because of the stock feel, but god dammit it if I had to pay near a grand for a clutch setup.

I like the Innovative Lc-1 wideband. Cost effective, reliable, and does the job.
You can get fancy AEM stuff with failsafe features like overboost cut off, lean cut off and stuff which would be neat but $$$$.
I like VDO monitoring gauges because it matches the interior/doesn't stick out like a sore thumb.

Crankcase, yeah technically it's for pressure relief. Gasses obviously sometimes pass through the piston rings making it into the block which eventually can pressurize it; that can blow gaskets. So, it goes up thru the crank case vent and routes back into your intake to be recirculated into your combustion again.
Can't do that on a boosted motor, because once you go into boost it pressurizes your intake obviously, which will then pressurize your crank case backwards, and pressurize your internals, and blow every gasket in there.
So you plug up the port on the intake, and route your crank case hose to where I mentioned earlier or to atmosphere for relief.

I like my Grimspeed controller for the reasons given. Subie guys like it too.
Electronic boost controllers will help you spool a little quicker since it either opens or shuts the wastegate; on/off. Manual ones bleed a little causing slower pressure build up(slower to get to your max psi). But whatever.. minimal to some, important to others.

Idk how cold. I'm one colder than stock 80c* with no electric fan (just stock clutch fan) and I don't have problems in traffic or nothing.


ARP is ARP. Just make sure the part #'s are the same. I emailed them before and they got to me pretty quick.

[slammin.e28]

Dis goin' be epic. I expect to see both of you at Bimmerfest East with these beasts, so long as my daughter postpones her arrival an allows me to go.

[F34R]

I figured at the time that is what you were talking about with the manifold. I would rather ask than pretend to know. Thanks for the help ak :)

I like that intercooler setup as I could retain stock and keep from powdercoating my manifold again. But I believe it will block turbo placement a lot.

Found this for wideband:

http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16314&cat=0&page=1

Thoughts?

This controller?

http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=91&products_id=145

What about a BOV brand? was thinking of just getting a Tial to match the Wastegates. Is there something for less that gets the job done?

These guys boost m30s alot:

http://www.turbochargingdynamics.com/product-96-32-40-60%23_Injectors.php

But their kits are so expensive yet do not seem cost effective to what someone can do piecing together.

[Pootis]

http://www.grimmspeed.com/catalog/pr...roducts_id=165
This is the manual boost controller he is talking about.
http://www.racepartsolutions.com/ind...part-solutions
This is the BOV I use and it works great.
http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/...Off-Valve.aspx
This is essentially the same thing a little cheaper

[TheTacoMan]

Ebay bovs can be nice and cheap.

Rushing turbo builds is not fun, kamotors and I built mine in bascily one weekend. Many hours and issues.

[ak-]

The wideband you posted is more of a turbo timer, volt meter, with wideband/afr reading capabilities, but doesn't come with an o2 or controller/harness ($120)

I was talking about this one:

http://www.streetrays.com/store/index.php?target=products&product_id=48765

Comes with everything you need to keep it simple.
I don't know how to wire it into MS (whodwho does though), and I am running it on a separate bung on it's own.

Pootis is right with the MBC I was mentioning, though I got it for I think $20(?) less at some vendor.

I like pull type BOV's only(HKS, Synapse). No adjustment screw needed to open on "soft" or "hard" or spring holding the valve shut.
And they stay SHUT from boost pressure in the charge pipe, not the vacuum line/spring like conventional valves.. This means zero leakage, less failure rate, zero compressor surge since, faster responding, and as mentioned, there aren't any settings/tuning to play with like a screw.
Push type bov stays closed under vacuum conditions by with a spring that is inside it pushing against the main valve that opens and closes.. The spring has a pressure rating on it that will not allow the valve to be open until a certain pressure level is achieved. So that's why you hear some guys having minor compressor surge (flutter flutter) when they let off throttle at 3psi cruising..

60lb injectors are expensive and no way around it lol.

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/111-Siemens-Deka-60-Injectors-6.aspx

I think these fit though.

Oh yeah, nobody mentioned fuel pump?
Mine failed at 8psi, Kamotors still going on at 20psi lol. So go figure.
A 255 is always a good option.

[sayed ali]

60lb injectors are expensive and no way around it lol.

http://shop.zzperformance.com/store/p/111-Siemens-Deka-60-Injectors-6.aspx

I think these fit though.

Oh yeah, nobody mentioned fuel pump?
Mine failed at 8psi, Kamotors still going on at 20psi lol. So go figure.
A 255 is always a good option.

I think those injectors need some minor modification to fit ..

+1 for the walbro 255 pump

[F34R]

Already have the 255 pump...sitting next to my mouse haha.

90 days is not really rushed, I am not going to just slap it all together. You guys should know my work better than that!

Right now I am just building a list and awaiting the manifold to be finished before I order ANYTHING. I am not just going to drain my account and have shit laying around.

Right now honestly...I am not sure I want to win. A Bavaira popped up 1.5hrs away sigh...

[IronFreak]

If your thinking water-cooled intercooler checkout this site. This kit is nice and the site in general offers a lot of stuff. I am playing around with the idea of water-cooled for my Murika build and hiding it behind the dash since the hvac units gone.

http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=7&products_id=1006&osCsid=c2c8808a3f47812f4a3e81bac07828ae

[ak-]

Already have the 255 pump...sitting next to my mouse haha.

90 days is not really rushed, I am not going to just slap it all together. You guys should know my work better than that!

Right now I am just building a list and awaiting the manifold to be finished before I order ANYTHING. I am not just going to drain my account and have shit laying around.

Right now honestly...I am not sure I want to win. A Bavaira popped up 1.5hrs away sigh...

Don't be homo. Endless thrills and smiles will accompany your finished turbo m30.
And yeah 90 days isn't rushed lol. My build took a week maybe tops once everything was lined up when I gave it to Castro. The only bugs I had following right after, was using a cheap shit wastegate that I replaced with a Tial, breaking my BOV because I'm an idiot, and more precise tuning.

[Pootis]

.....mine took a year lol