How to get 0 psi for break in

[GunMetalGrey]

So, here is my thought
I am going to be starting my freshly rebuilt m50nv soon, and it will be on ms3x. I did piston rings and the bottom end bearings. I want to let the rings seat without boost (or does it not matter too much?) because I feel like boost on a fresh motor is not a good idea.
My wastegate spring is set for seven psi, and I am running a blunttech manifold with an external wastegate, I need to keep the turbo on for startup/break in because I have all of the oil passages plumbed for it.
Is there any way to keep the turbo from just spooling a ton? I am trying to figure out if I should just disconnect the charge pipe from the intake but then the turbo would keep spooling, no?

Cliffs, Need turbo on car, don't want boost.

[ak-]

Your car isn't going to be generating pressure in the charge pipes at idle..
Once warm, it will be around -16Hg vacuum or so.

You can drive around town and get up to speed without even going into boost..
80% of my daily driving never hits 1psi lol.

Drive around town at different RPM loads and decelerate a lot for a good break in.

[AbsorbantNut]

Depends on the size of the turbo I guess, but I manage to spool in town when I'm just putting around.

[Exodus_2pt0]

Also on first start don't just let it sit there and idle.... Start, let oil pressure build, and hold it around 2k for a few minutes.

Of course all break in is hearsay and personal preference no matter how you do it.

I've gotten to the point now I just start a fresh motor, let it run at 2k for about 5 minutes, shut it down and let it cool, then take it out and drive the hell out of it.

No problems yet.

[GunMetalGrey]

I read a lot on the harder type of break in. Crank for a bit to get oil then drive increasingly harder. Nothing super gentle.
Hx35 for turbo

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[MF DOOM]

Maybe unhook your piping? throw a filter on your intake where you can and just dump your boost to atmosphere.

EDIT: I should learn to read...

I am trying to figure out if I should just disconnect the charge pipe from the intake but then the turbo would keep spooling, no?

I dont understand what you mean. If all your boost is going straight out to atmosphere why would it matter if it spools?

[ak-]

Actually yeah, if you have not done any type of ECU install and what-not just start the car and have your turbo be the muffler since you don't want to take out oil lines..

[GunMetalGrey]

Maybe unhook your piping? throw a filter on your intake where you can and just dump your boost to atmosphere.

EDIT: I should learn to read...




I dont understand what you mean. If all your boost is going straight out to atmosphere why would it matter if it spools?

The waste gate won't open until it gets its required amount of boost, if I connect the waste gate to the system without it connected it will never get boost, and always spool.


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[ak-]

you're really thinking too hard about this.

[FLG]

Start it up, break it in an 2-3k or so fluctuating rpm. Make sure nothing is leaking, drive around a bit doing a lot of engine breaking, drive to dyno.

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[einstein57]

I'd remove the wastegate spring.

Maybe unhook your piping? throw a filter on your intake where you can and just dump your boost to atmosphere.

EDIT: I should learn to read...




I dont understand what you mean. If all your boost is going straight out to atmosphere why would it matter if it spools?

Perhaps he's worried the turbo will over rev. Not sure if that's possible with out positive pressure.

[Exodus_2pt0]

I'd remove the wastegate spring.

So painfully obvious we should all smack ourselves for not thinking of this. /thread.

[GunMetalGrey]

Wasn't sure if that was a good way to do it or not. Any chance of the valve bouncing shut?
The more I thought about it the more it seemed like the best way.

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[einstein57]

They do sell a "natural spring" but most people just run no spring. It should remain pinned all the way open.

[325est13psi]

i thought engine decel was bad for the first 1000 miles when breaking in a fresh build