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From knowing nothing to having a Thunderbird supercharger on an m20b27i

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    Originally posted by Sideways87 View Post
    Noooooo nit what i wanted to read!!!bring it over this weekend and we can check it out.
    I know, right? Yeah, maybe Sunday...
    Originally posted by Andy.B
    Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
    1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
    ~~~~~~~~~~
    I was born on 3/25…
    ~~~~~~~~~~

    Comment


      Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
      It only makes the noise when still in vacuum. But I'll try that tomorrow anyway if only to check the s/c coupler. Thanks bro.
      You said light throttle...
      Could be that there's not much torque on the coupler at light throttle, as the engine's pulling air about the same rate the SC is delivering it (and the bypass is open, right?). When you put your foot down, the bypass closes, the throttle opens and the coupler takes a lot of torque, preventing play in it from making noise.

      Comment


        Yeah, I like that. Fingers crossed...
        Originally posted by Andy.B
        Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
        1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
        ~~~~~~~~~~
        I was born on 3/25…
        ~~~~~~~~~~

        Comment


          I was trying to look through the thread, I don't see if you have any updated engine management.

          Are you just running the stock ECU?
          REMEMBER: Be safe and have fun is Rule Number 1.

          The Epic Unbuild of Clint Eastwood

          Comment


            No, I'm running ms2.

            Regardless, I just removed the blower belt and the sound is still there. Internal engine something. I've had a sticking valve before, it was much louder than this noise. I've wasted a rod bearing before, much louder than this noise. It sounds to me like rod bearing light. Maybe just early bearing failure (or rod small end like LJ said). I'm gonna pull my other short block to drop in, and start collecting the stroker parts.
            Last edited by Ether-D; 06-18-2014, 09:44 AM.
            Originally posted by Andy.B
            Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
            1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
            ~~~~~~~~~~
            I was born on 3/25…
            ~~~~~~~~~~

            Comment


              P.S.
              Not being a smartass (maybe a little…), but you can search individual threads with the "search this thread" button.
              Originally posted by Andy.B
              Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
              1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
              ~~~~~~~~~~
              I was born on 3/25…
              ~~~~~~~~~~

              Comment


                Ok, so I'm reading about strokers to replace my rattly bottom with (while i'm in there…). There's the 2.7 and the 2.8 budget strokers. I'm getting the feeling that the 2.7i (b27 bottom b25 top) is the way to go (for me) because of lower compression for forced induction. Is this the correct idea? What would I gain from the 2.8 besides higher compression and .1L more displacement? And would the higher compression actually hurt me? I'm also thinking a m20b27 bottom would be easy to source and likely very cheap. I'll probably do a full rebuild on whatever bottom I go with so as to start with a "new" bottom, wear-wise.

                2.7:
                no machining
                easy to source
                cheaper
                lower compression
                lower revolutions per lower r3v limit so lower wear

                2.8:
                .1L more displacement

                Seems pretty cut and dried, unless any of yous can tell me why I should go 2.8 instead.
                Originally posted by Andy.B
                Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
                1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
                ~~~~~~~~~~
                I was born on 3/25…
                ~~~~~~~~~~

                Comment


                  3.0 stroker ;)

                  Comment


                    Sooo much more money… Am I on the right track here though?
                    Originally posted by Andy.B
                    Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
                    1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
                    ~~~~~~~~~~
                    I was born on 3/25…
                    ~~~~~~~~~~

                    Comment


                      You can get a whole M54B30 for $500 and probably sell the cylinder head for $250 when you're done.

                      Nando's done a M20B30... ask him what it took.
                      Remember what we said soooo many pages ago about the blower working better with bigger engines...

                      Comment


                        I know bigger will be better for the m90, but I think I want to also have lower compression. What's the theory about lower compression and FI? Is it about lessening the likelihood of pre-ignition and/or detonation? If so, is that the only thing it does for you?
                        Originally posted by Andy.B
                        Whenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
                        1987 325iS m30b34 Muscle car (Engine electrical phase)
                        ~~~~~~~~~~
                        I was born on 3/25…
                        ~~~~~~~~~~

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                          You can get a whole M54B30 for $500
                          Where?
                          Originally posted by kronus
                          would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by agent View Post
                            Where?


                            Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
                            I know bigger will be better for the m90, but I think I want to also have lower compression. What's the theory about lower compression and FI? Is it about lessening the likelihood of pre-ignition and/or detonation? If so, is that the only thing it does for you?
                            Lower compression raises the threshold (in terms of temperature and boost pressre) for detonation at a given fuel octane.

                            Preignition and detonation are very different things.

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by agent View Post
                              Where?
                              Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                              Maybe for only the short block. Here is the first page of M54B30s on car-part.com sorted by distance:





                              Originally posted by kronus
                              would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Ether-D View Post
                                2.7:
                                no machining
                                easy to source
                                cheaper
                                lower compression
                                lower revolutions per lower r3v limit so lower wear
                                Wut? I have my 2.7 spinning up to 7100 right now, 2.7i doesnt have a limiting factor to revving, same as a 2.5i as far as Im concerned.
                                The lower compression means that it will be less prone to detonate with bad gas generally speaking, this doesnt mean you can run lesser gas than 91. The 2.7i really isnt far off of a 2.5i when they are both boosted, sure it will spool the turbo quicker but the lesser compression also hinders spool time.
                                I would try to find a supereta if you go 2.7i as they have better compression than just the e.

                                Comment

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