From knowing nothing to having a Thunderbird supercharger on an m20b27i

[Q5Quint]

[Ether-D]

Its getting better all the time. I got the rich idle up to 13.9-14.2 ish. So that smells a lot better. Thank you guys. I really do appreciate it.

[Q5Quint]

Keith, I have been running your tune for a year nearly as-is and it still works great. Had to adjust it a bit due to the -10 degree days we dont usually have.

Mr Ether-D, no ball growing necessary. Just make sure you are not running lean under wot/ambient pressure/boost. Running 14-15 afr down the highway is fine as long as your timing is not too advanced for your 87 octane.

However, it will be really hard to change your timing correctly without knock sensors on a dyno. Find somebody that DID do a dyno tune, and remember that is your upper limit timing map wise. No shame in being safe.

Get your fuel right and turn back time if you think it is pinging. The accel enrichment settings can really fck things up if you get too crazy with them so make sure to save backups as you go.

If you want help with a particular screen us nerds can take screenshots for you.

Alright, update. Took it for a ten mile test drive. Just normal DD style driving. Idles at AFR 12.0-12.5, under medium load accelerating it hangs around 12.9-13.5, but cruising AKA super light throttle 2-3000 RPM it is trying to be a bit lean, 15.0-15.3.

Sounds perfect. Check your afr map and see if that is what it is supposed to do, as it can adjust +-10% or so. To adjust the idle you will need to adjust the actual fueling bins around the idle rpm/vacume. You might have to lower them 4-5 points to notice on your gauge but it depends on how you are setup. Start with just moving them one point at a time.

These ms setups are very smart.... they can tune themselves within a pretty wide range so even if your fuel injectors are 10% off you may not even know because they adjust you back to the correct afr. However, some of those settings turn off at idle and under wot/boost.... so you still have to be smart.

[The Dark Side of Will]

but cruising AKA super light throttle 2-3000 RPM it is trying to be a bit lean, 15.0-15.3.

As Whodwho mentioned, 15-16 for light load cruise is OK... just watch out for knock as you tune the transition from cruise to load.

[Ether-D]

So what you're saying is I need to grow some balls. I know, I'm just afraid I'm gonna blow up something and the car goes down again for another month. I'll get the registered version asap. Thanks again Keith.

[whodwho]

Target a warmed up idle ~14, light cruise is fine up around 15-16 as long as you don't feel it surging(usually when closer to 17ish) and when you start to roll on the throttle is richens up.

Sounds like you are timid to start adjusting the VE table, get the registered version of TS and let it at it 8^)

[Ether-D]

Alright, update. Took it for a ten mile test drive. Just normal DD style driving. Idles at AFR 12.0-12.5, under medium load accelerating it hangs around 12.9-13.5, but cruising AKA super light throttle 2-3000 RPM it is trying to be a bit lean, 15.0-15.3. So I just decided to not cruise for the duration of the trip. I would let it decelerate then medium throttle back up to 65 then coast then medium throttle until I got back home. Stop and go did great, the only problem areas are that real light throttle and the rich idle. Any pointers on how to help remedy these areas?

[Ether-D]

I didn't have it entered in TS. Just did that. Thanks Keith.

Also thanks to everyone else that has offered help. Yesterday was frustrating. It was the first really warm and sunny day this year in TN and I wanted to drive with the top down soooo baaaaad. But I resisted. Gonna be worth it...

[whodwho]

Check that the output is not set for narrowband and that you have calibrated it in TS

[Ether-D]

So I can't use the yellow for the gauge and the ms2? Cause that's how I have it now.

Edit: "Each of the two analog output wires can connect to one device that can accept this 0-5v potential output."
-maybe this is the problem. So now I have to hook another thing to my goddamn computer and hope I can fumble my way through a bunch of digital mumbo-jumbo. Great. Why can't everything be pulleys and fuckin' metal?

[RickSloan]

You need to calibrate the Sensor to send a wide band signal to both the gauge and the laptop. Download I think LM Programmer v3.33 and you should be able set the signal it sends. Ask syncro325is if you need more input, he knows what to actually do.

[The Dark Side of Will]

If your AFR meter is made to take the output of a conventional narrow band sensor, then it should receive the brown output.

Black should be grounded to a ground, red should go to hot. For testing purposes, you can run these wires directly to the battery terminals.

[Ether-D]

Yeah, I have read that. A couple of times. I was hoping someone would say "I have ___color wire attached to ___ location, and ____color wire attached to ____ location and it works."

My apologies, but I need some hand-holding on electronic wizardry.

[codrum]

It is an innovate lc-2. Ok, grounds incorrectly hooked up perhaps. What would be the correct way (as simple terms as possible)?

Direct from the LC-2 manual, it sounds more likely that one of your analog outputs is still programmed to simulate narrowband:

The LC-2 has 4 stripped wires.

1 Connect the RED wire to a switched 12V source in your vehicle. A
switched 12V source goes ON as soon as “key on” power is active. 4
2 The circuit to which you will pull power from should be able to support
an additional 3 amp draw. Make sure the connection is fused with a
minimum fuse size of 5A.
Circuits that share power with the vehicle’s stereo, ignition system,
ECU, and fuel pump should not be used. When in doubt, create an additional
circuit using an automotive relay available at most any automotive parts
supplier. See the in the next section for a relay installation diagram.

3 The BLACK wire should be grounded to a solid ground source. The
best possible ground source would be the battery ground (-) post.
If other Innovate Motorsports devices are going to be daisy-chained
along with the LC-2, it is recommended that all devices be connected to a
single ground point, ideally the battery ground (-) post.

4 Optionally, the YELLOW (Analog out 1) and/or BROWN (Analog out 2)
can be connected to the analog inputs of other devices such as data
loggers, aftermarket programmable ECUs, or AFR display gauges. If
either one or both of these wires are not being used, isolate and tape
the wire(s) in an out of the way location. Each of the two analog output
wires can connect to one device that can accept this 0-5v potential
output.

The default analog outputs are as follows: Analog output one (yellow) is
0V = 7.35 AFR and 5V = 22.39 AFR. Analog output two (brown) is 1.1V
= 14 AFR and .1V = 15 AFR. Note: The LC-2’s ground should share the
same grounding source as the device to which you are feeding the
analog outputs, the easiest wait to accomplish this is to run an aux
ground wire from the ground point of the LC-2 to the ground or signal
ground of the device you are interfacing with.

Source: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/s...C-2_Manual.pdf

[Ether-D]

It is an innovate lc-2. Ok, grounds incorrectly hooked up perhaps. What would be the correct way (as simple terms as possible)?