Lithiums - E30 / M50TU Eaton-M90 Supercharged Thread

[Q5Quint]

2 years later and your peanut butter still makes me jelly.

gl with the new injectors and tuning~ i've had 3 different megasquirts now and wouldn't go back.

[Lithium]

2 years later and your peanut butter still makes me jelly.

gl with the new injectors and tuning~ i've had 3 different megasquirts now and wouldn't go back.

Thanks for the support - We are plugging along with Renovelo and the car has been improving and for the most part is drive-able.

Until this happened. (unrelated to the tuning)

Bad luck on the way to the pad yesterday.
Apparently constantly spinning the blower 3000rpm faster created much more heat than I had anticipated. It's repairable but the blower will end up less efficient as a result.
Time to get the meth injection going to help keep her running a little cooler and try again.

[The Dark Side of Will]

You do have a bypass valve, right?

[Lithium]

You do have a bypass valve, right?

Yes There are two Bosch Vacuum Bypass valves. (see below)

[Lithium]

Dark Side Of Will got me thinking about bypass (THANKS!!!)

I spent last night swapping the snout & getting the new blower core mounted in the hanger.
I finally figured out why the blower overheated & melted itself. The vacuum signal line I had mounted to the throttle body should have been mounted near the intake instead.
It wasn't opening the bypass up enough & making the blower run hot. It was also not letting the bypass close all the way & not letting it build full boost.
Hopefully the new blower & the new Vacuum signal input will get me back on the road so I can continue tuning.

= That was only a $800.00 mistake...

(What a Nightmare)

[The Dark Side of Will]

Dark Side Of Will got me thinking about bypass (THANKS!!!)

The vacuum signal line I had mounted to the throttle body should have been mounted near the intake instead.

You're welcome!

Which did the line connect to?
-Boost pressure (in the intake tube upstream of the throttle)?
-Ported vacuum (sees intake tube pressure when the throttle is closed, but manifold pressure when the throttle is open)?
-Manifold pressure?

You want the bypass valve to open when there is a pressure difference between the intake tube and the manifold. This happens when the throttle is closed enough to create a pressure difference.

Of course you also want the bypass air to recycle to the blower inlet, preferably ALL downstream or ALL upstream of the MAF. Bypassing metered air from downstream of the MAF to upstream of the MAF will play havoc with your DME.

[Lithium]

Red = Where it was (Throttle Body) = BAD The bypass would work fine when the throttle was closed - But at part throttle it would not open enough and during boost the bypass was slightly open and causing boost leak.

Green - Where I moved it to (Here it should get the proper signal at part throttle & under boost)

[The Dark Side of Will]

My bad... I was thinking that your throttle was downstream of the blower, which is really dumb.

The bypass valves should open when there's a pressure difference across the throttle, and should connect downstream of the blower to a location upstream of the blower but downstream of the throttle.

You have the bypass valves mounted downstream of the blower and sensing what appears to be upstream of the throttle. The bypass valves are sensing the difference between atmospheric and boost pressure. I *think* they should be sensing the difference between atmospheric and pressure *upstream* of the throttle.

IOW, you may need to swap ends on your bypass... move the valves over where the hoses are connected and the hoses back where the valves are now.

What Bosch PN are you using? Do you have a tech sheet for it?

[Lithium]

This drawing should shine some light on the madness...



This is the valve - I will look up the specs & report back.



ChrZ!!

[Lithium]

Crap - Based on this = Mine are in backwards. I will flip them over ASAP!!!
(Feeling pretty stupid now...)

[Lithium]

I flipped the valves around & its holding 7.5psi = Nice!
Unfortunately the valves are not matching.

Here are the two different part numbers.
Bosch 0282 142 102
Bosch 0282 142 110

The 110 is for higher vacuum applications & doesn't stay open when I am cruising so the blower is running hot. I've ordered a 102 - I hope that does the trick.
I should have done my research before buying the valves & has cost me lots of time & headache & $$$


Hopefully this will be the end of my troubles...

[Lithium]

NOPE!!!

My BAD luck is here to stay. Last night while tweaking some idle tables my ECU fried itself - Car Died & ECU relay started buzzing = Dead!!!
The next day I went to fire up my laptop & it had crashed its hard drive loosing all my tuning files & my software license.
Now I am back to pushing the car around the shop...
Is this crap ever going to end?

[The Dark Side of Will]

Ooops... dirty power? Are you on a UPS or a surge protector?

[Ether-D]

Yep, all that shit sucks. But when you get this thing figured out and dialed in, it'll all be worth it. It'll be more than worth it. Just keep swimming.

[Lithium]

New SSD drive in the laptop & I am back in business (Turns out the ECU in the car was OK)
It's making 7.5psi withe the valves pointing in the right direction but I still need to improve the bypass - Blower is running hot when cruising.
I will add one more bypass valve circuit & it should be good to go & keep tuning.
What a headache.
Thanks for all the moral support guys.