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    Piecing Together a turbo

    Okay, I thought about it for a few months and I want to turbo my m20. I am going to research and slowly build. I am in no rush whatsoever. I am still learning about this whole process. I want to try to be under $4000 for the build

    My car is my DD so I was thinking about buying a stock m20 engine,installing as much of the parts as I can, and then taking off a week or so (as much time as needed) and swap the engines..

    As far as the internals of the m20 go, I understand replacing the head studs with ARPs and a new head gasket and injectors should be fine with 12 pounds of boost. (True?)

    My question is there any order in what I should buy for the turbo build after I replace the studs and head gasket. Turbo manifold? Injectors? Piping?

    Any advice or tips are welcomed. Thanks!

    #2
    The answer would be too long, better to research and then ask a certain question, this will not get you confused

    stock injectors are definitely not enough even for 10 psi, 42lb injectors are good for 12 psi

    There is no ordering for buying the turbo parts (IMO)


    M20B28 Turbo

    My Build Thread

    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=255839

    Comment


      #3
      ^^^ well said


      Build Thread
      http://www.e30tech.com/forum/showthread.php?t=84988

      "When In Doubt Boost It Out"
      ~89 325I Turbo 11.90 @ 121~
      ~ 420whp/420tq~
      15psi

      ~Paul Burke Built 2.8L Stroked M20
      ~666 Divided Mani T3
      ~6262 T3 Turbo
      ~O'ringed Block SS
      ~Custom Fuel System
      ~3'' Turbo Back
      ~50mm Tial Bov
      ~Dual Tial 38 Gates

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by sayed ali View Post
        The answer would be too long, better to research and then ask a certain question, this will not get you confused

        stock injectors are definitely not enough even for 10 psi, 42lb injectors are good for 12 psi

        There is no ordering for buying the turbo parts (IMO)
        Okay sounds good! Thanks for the info. I should be fine building it outside the car right? just take measurements before I do anything..

        What do I need to look for in a turbo? I've seen so many different turbos on build threads

        Comment


          #5
          Look at kamotors setup and kits.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by speedracer 2002 View Post
            Look at kamotors setup and kits.
            Thanks! I just did. I will be working with him! I have a question, do people use Holset HX50 turbos? http://www.ebay.com/itm/181384107394...84.m1423.l2649

            Comment


              #7
              hx 50 too big, bro. It is too big even for 3.5 liter m30 engines.

              hx35 or 40.

              The hx35 comes on a 400hp 5.9 liter diesel. If you want 400hp, look at a hx35. Your 2.5 liter engine revs 2x as high as the diesel, so it would take 2x as long to get boost. Instead of instant it would be like 3k rpm.

              the hx 40 comes on 8.3 liter diesel.

              The hx 50 is like the mack truck 10 liter diesel turbo. I am not sure how to make it work on a motor 4x as small... Sure it would boost but it wouldnt hit till like 5k rpm.

              I would also recommend just doing all this work with the engine in the car. If you are 1/2 inch off "measuring things" you will have to double your fab time, and may not get it all back together in time to go to work on monday.


              minimize turbo build downtime: 1 day-ish weekends for 3 weekends.
              • Do the injectors and tuning first and get that working right.
              • Add in intercooler and other intake plumbing. These are cheap components but squeezing them in there takes more time than you think.
              • Add turbo manifold, turbo, oil lines. Build/connect exhaust. Keep boost ultra low.
              • new timing belt, wp, head gasket, studs etc. Paint everything all pretty while you are in there. Drive a few weeks and then turn up bewst. If you had happened to have completely rebuilt a motor with new bearings, rings and seals, etc etc.... this would be a good time to swap that in.
              • Now your clutch is shredding itself. Turn down the bewst until you have a weekend to swap that up.
              • ??? profit?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Q5Quint View Post
                hx 50 too big, bro. It is too big even for 3.5 liter m30 engines.

                hx35 or 40.

                The hx35 comes on a 400hp 5.9 liter diesel. If you want 400hp, look at a hx35. Your 2.5 liter engine revs 2x as high as the diesel, so it would take 2x as long to get boost. Instead of instant it would be like 3k rpm.

                the hx 40 comes on 8.3 liter diesel.

                The hx 50 is like the mack truck 10 liter diesel turbo. I am not sure how to make it work on a motor 4x as small... Sure it would boost but it wouldnt hit till like 5k rpm.

                I would also recommend just doing all this work with the engine in the car. If you are 1/2 inch off "measuring things" you will have to double your fab time, and may not get it all back together in time to go to work on monday.


                minimize turbo build downtime: 1 day-ish weekends for 3 weekends.
                • Do the injectors and tuning first and get that working right.
                • Add in intercooler and other intake plumbing. These are cheap components but squeezing them in there takes more time than you think.
                • Add turbo manifold, turbo, oil lines. Build/connect exhaust. Keep boost ultra low.
                • new timing belt, wp, head gasket, studs etc. Paint everything all pretty while you are in there. Drive a few weeks and then turn up bewst. If you had happened to have completely rebuilt a motor with new bearings, rings and seals, etc etc.... this would be a good time to swap that in.
                • Now your clutch is shredding itself. Turn down the bewst until you have a weekend to swap that up.
                • ??? profit?
                Thank you that is exactly what I am looking for! Thanks so much!

                Comment


                  #9
                  An important note would be that if you are ever separating the engine and the tranny- you probably need a new rear main seal. And since they are seperated you might as well also do the clutch. And may as well do new fluid.

                  If you want to be speedy mcfly I would do a clutch swap and bottom end rebuild over a few months in the garage after you get a low (8psi?) boost setup already working in your car. The thing is.... you may not need a bottom end rebuild, and, you can change the clutch without removing the engine.

                  It really depends on how much $$ you want to spend. At some point you realize that an ls1 v-8 swap would cost the same.

                  Ls1 or turbo- you will need a new clutch if you go past 7 or 8psi, but you wont need it right now if you are easy on the foot.

                  I just try to not remove whole engines and transmissions unless I have to, but I am a big baby as it only takes a few hours. I paid a guy to put a new clutch, fluid, rear seals, fix the backup lights, new guibo and some other stuff while he had the tranny out. $700 and 1 day of downtime was very worth it for all that work.

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