Originally posted by ForcedFirebird
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Stock i AFM Handle Boost?
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Not a whole lot when it's tuned properly with a chip. In stock form, the m20 AFM reads up to 200,000gms/sec, the m30 reads 250,000
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Im sure theres a way to extend the wiring, Is there really any benefit for the m20 vs m30 afm for boost?
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You need the AFM as draw through. It is useless as a blow through.
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Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostWouldn't matter if it had been an m20 AFM ;)
As long as the AFM is in front of the turbo, Motronic and boost works well (until a coupler blows off hehe). As mentioned before, this is what was in Porsche turbo cars of the same era.
Yeah does suck about the car, but better then something happening to Belina :/
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Originally posted by Ether-D View PostBullhead, just go after what you wanna do. You listen to some of it, you ignore some of it. If you listen to all of it, you won't even start. So, just figure out who to ignore and go from thereā¦
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Originally posted by TheTacoMan View PostSeems like you got it running pretty well though on the m30 afm.
Wouldn't matter if it had been an m20 AFM ;)
As long as the AFM is in front of the turbo, Motronic and boost works well (until a coupler blows off hehe). As mentioned before, this is what was in Porsche turbo cars of the same era.
Yeah does suck about the car, but better then something happening to Belina :/
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Bullhead, just go after what you wanna do. You listen to some of it, you ignore some of it. If you listen to all of it, you won't even start. So, just figure out who to ignore and go from there…
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Originally posted by AbsorbantNut View Postwonder who that could be ;D
Ill be interested to what you do next, still sucks about the car.
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Originally posted by TheTacoMan View PostYou really should not turbo then, There was a guy on here that did a budget junkyard build but it was far from ideal, on a rusted e30. If you cant afford ms, then how do expect to afford a decent turbo, injectors, the custom exhuast, paying someone to tune the monotronic system, and not to mention the need to for a stronger clutch?
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Originally posted by TheTacoMan View PostYou really should not turbo then, There was a guy on here that did a budget junkyard build but it was far from ideal, on a rusted e30. If you cant afford ms, then how do expect to afford a decent turbo, injectors, the custom exhuast, paying someone to tune the monotronic system, and not to mention the need to for a stronger clutch?
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Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostUmmm, I tuned that car, and it ran very well at that. Re-mapped the chip to accept 30lb/hr injectors, idled perfect in the 14's AFR's, and was a steady 12.5 under boost.
The Motronic is the very same system that Porsche used in the 944 turbo cars. As long as there's someone competent behind the chip writing, Motronic is fine. No need to clock the AFM, no need for a RRFPR etc.
No, it's not for everyone, but M1.3 is plenty capable. Just get an Ostrich 2.0 emulator and TunerPro RT - cost ya $175.
I would also like to state that I have nothing against the MS system, as it is outstanding. I just have a lot going on with the car and was looking to at least have some fun while repairing everything that has been neglected.
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Originally posted by TheTacoMan View PostYou really should not turbo then, There was a guy on here that did a budget junkyard build but it was far from ideal, on a rusted e30. If you cant afford ms, then how do expect to afford a decent turbo, injectors, the custom exhuast, paying someone to tune the monotronic system, and not to mention the need to for a stronger clutch?
Ummm, I tuned that car, and it ran very well at that. Re-mapped the chip to accept 30lb/hr injectors, idled perfect in the 14's AFR's, and was a steady 12.5 under boost.
The Motronic is the very same system that Porsche used in the 944 turbo cars. As long as there's someone competent behind the chip writing, Motronic is fine. No need to clock the AFM, no need for a RRFPR etc.
No, it's not for everyone, but M1.3 is plenty capable. Just get an Ostrich 2.0 emulator and TunerPro RT - cost ya $175.
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It's not that I can't afford it, I never said I couldn't afford it. I just said I didn't want to, just because someone doesn't want to blow a wad of greenbacks on a MS doesn't mean they are a broke. I am just trying to think along the lines of budget while repairing everything else the cars needs to. Again I was just asking if it would work, and if it's not ideal that's ok lol. I will turn back to the m30 swap for N/A power then.
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seems to be most popular MS option on r3v. $650
wideband o2 - 150ish
turbo manifold (ebay) 150
tubing and intercooler (cheapest i found was ebay) 150
turbo (wide range depending on brand) lets say 250-350 ?
custom exhaust work - 300 (probably, depending on shop)
Injectors (85-150) depending
tuner programs (free unless you register then like 39$ i believe)
dyno tuning (local rate is 200 first hour, 150 after)
ARP head studs (200ish) or metric blue (4$ each i think)
cheap knockoff BOV $50
new clutch if going over 250hp ($300)
decent computer to tune with (wont include in cost, most have one...not me tho)
= $2650+-
obviously an EXTREMELY rough estimate.
so far my parts
Begi RRFPR $115 shipped
Garrett Aireasearch t3 - Free (yea not a good example for pricing)
30lb rebuilt/flowed injectors $85 shipped
ebay manifold 150
ebay intercooler/piping 150
metric blue bolts ($4per)
turbo chip (probably go SSSquid because hes a good guy 230) (ebay 50$)
exhaust work -$300
Wideband $150
BOV $50
M30 AFM 50$ shipped
stock clutch because this setup is low boost and power goals are under 250
=$1250 Rough
im sure both can be had for less depending if you shop around. but i feel like if your goal is to turbo for cheap/low PSI/low HP, 650 for management is a lot. if your looking to build a 350+ HP car, yea management is key, as well as things like ARP studs, or even Cometic HG. as soon as you get into the higher PSI area i can see budget being bad, and also it being even more important to rebuild the engine you already have (rings especially) but to run 8psi on the m20, i think that low of a psi is well within the safe range capable of a budget build, while obviously not the best setup. as long as A/F ratio is good throughout the powerband, and your not at the limits of your setup what is really wrong with the budget nonMS setup? and i ask that as a question to get some more info.
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