DIY Turbo install in progress

[Marvin]

Updates........

Received more parts for the turbo














Finally got a chance to remove oilpan



Here's after cleaning it up


Guages installed


Update pics of the turbo install





More pics to come......

[Mr Deagle]

For engine cooling reasons it makes more sense to have cold/cooler are released into the engine bay rather than hot.

-Chris

especially when there is a near red hot or red hot exhaust heating things up


/sarcasm

it wouldn't help at all, the radiator handles cooling duties

[matt]

For engine cooling reasons it makes more sense to have cold/cooler are released into the engine bay rather than hot.

-Chris

Not really.

[White Nightmare]

For engine cooling reasons it makes more sense to have cold/cooler are released into the engine bay rather than hot.

-Chris

[matt]

It doesn't really matter a whole lot where you put it. There are ups and down to both locations. I would put it closer to the throttle body, myself.

[Mr Deagle]

Well, if you do think about it, all the pressure in your entire system is bled out with a BOV. Intercooler and all. Thats what a BOV does.

duh, but you would be wasiting cooled air instead of hot air, think about it in an energy sense

[ANDRÜ]

put the blow off valve immediately after the turbo outlet, so you are not wasting you intercooled air after the intercooler

think about it, and it will make sense

Well, if you do think about it, all the pressure in your entire system is bled out with a BOV. Intercooler and all. Thats what a BOV does.

[Mr Deagle]

put the blow off valve immediately after the turbo outlet, so you are not wasting you intercooled air after the intercooler

think about it, and it will make sense

[chbimmer]

well, I think it makes for more pressure build up time, so maybe lag if they are to big. Also if the turbo was smaller, you would strain the turbo to build boost. I noticed by going with a smaller diameter pipe, I increased boost. I was funning like 2 1/2 inch and then Went to 2 inch. on the same systme I want to say that i was running 9lbs before the pipe change, then once it was all said and done i was running 11lbs.

[Mako18]

Looks great man. Nice parts. .Deff love the step by step with pics!! What are the demensions of your IC? and not to make your install process more complicated but if you don't mind, I am curious to know the length of the charge pipes (after you cut them) starting from the turbo to intake mani. I plan to weld a small bead around my charge pipes where I use couplers to help prevent any chance of blowing one off. Might be overkill but thats never a bad thing especially when considering where the couplers will be located.

Does anyone else think the charge pipes are a little to large? won't the larger pipes reduce velocity? I am not being trying to be a PITA and I am deff not an expert but just want to know for myself why you decided on such a large diameter?

Thanks
-D

[Sauceboy01]

can't wait till you finish.

[TerribleONE]

Good work marvin!! can wait to see it in person! i love how detailed your thread is..very informative. cant wait to see the finished project.

[Mr Deagle]

cool looks like fun, i wish i had the motivation to finish my turbo car

[Marvin]

MORE parts came in......


Received the (2) 18" x 3.0" polished aluminum pipes



Cut the 3.0" pipes to size and test fitted them from the turbo, intercooler to intake manifold



From the turbo outlet to 3" pipe , i used a Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 2.0" to 3.0" - form http://www.siliconeintakes.com / for $19.99





From turbo to intercooler inlet (2.5") /outlet (2.5") , I used 2 x Silicone Reducer, 90° bend - 3.0" to 2.5" - from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/ for $19.99 each





from intercooler outlet (2.5"), to 3" pipes (3.0 silicone straight coupling and more t-bolt clamps are in order)





where the Tial 38mm BOV will be installed




from 3" pipes to intake manifold, i used 3.0" Silicone 90° Elbow, for $16.99 and 3.0" Silicone Straight Couple, for $9.99 both from http://www.siliconeintakes.com/


TO BE CONTINUED................

[jon volk]

See my post on e30 tech. Put the adapter into the chassis then fit the forward manifold and then the rear. Tighten in equal sequence so nothing binds up between all the mating surfaces. Tilting the motor would help too but shouldnt need to be done unless your OEM studs on the manifolds are the ridiculously long ones. Also see the pic of simply bending the rear oil line to keep everything the factory put there in place.