Building m10 for boost

[Jean]

Has anybody worked on the m10 enough to deduct what internals are weak other than the head gasket for example ?

I am picking up an extra complete m10 in about a week or so and will start with sending the head to the machine shop for clean up new guides/valve job. Then plan is to replace every gasket and seal and work from there. I would like to stay with the original block and not mix/match the block/head just for simplicity sake.

Metric Mechanic sells a sport version of the m10 head, and I am currently trying to weight the option of going NA and shooting for about 160-170hp but most likely it will cost just as much as to turbo the engine properly. I am looking at whats available for the m10 on http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/e30engin.htm

I would like to hear exactly what area(s) need extra attention for it to be reliable at let's say about 275hp at the crank on 91. Ideally I would need to size the turbo correctly to get good midrange tq, as I don't want to end up with peaky band or no power until 5krpm and usable only for 1-2k rpm range... I don't believe I'll need more power but would like it to be reliable 24/7 pushing atleast that much. I am pretty hard on the car(s) and basically want to do it once, right. I figure injectors will also need to be replaced, along with adjustable fuel pressure regulator and most likely aftermarket ignition system with fuel and spark controlled by megasquirt. Most likely fuel tank/pump(s) will also be replaced with a cell as needed.

Goal is #1 for it to be reliable and #2 fast enough for HPDE events. 100hp is just not cutting it no matter how much grip the car's got.

Thanks.

[Mr Deagle]

Use ARP main and head bolts, and ethier a s14 crank and rods, and custom pistons or use 2002 forged 2 liter crank and rods and pistons

If you assemble it correctly you should be fine

oh and for wow factor, get a e30 m3 sport evo oil pump

[Primo]

170 na on a m10 would be pretty tough, remember this is a 8 valve engine. and if yer weary of a peaky engine you should go turbo, much better mid range trq, then you get from the high cams you'd have to use

[Jean]

I believe the block has to remain stock and not modified in SM, so I can upgrade only the head and add turbo.

Not going to bother going NA on it, as it's too much $ per hp gained.

[Good & Tight]

The weakest link are the pistons. For your power goal I would invest in a good set of forged pistons and Total Seal rings.

Head studs are pretty cheap and worth every penny.

The stock head is fine, I would suggest port match the intake and the exhaust ports and have it resurfaced as little as possible, same goes for the block.

A good tubular turbo manifold will help produce more power with less boost compared to a log style manifold.

Turbo choice would be a T3 .48 exhaust, with a 46mm compressor wheel. You will have a more linear power band.

They key component in making it reliable is the tuning, MS w/ EDIS for sure especially if your running 91octane.

Intercooler a must, nothing to big though, look at my sig the only part of the cooler that is covered are the end tanks. Larger TB from an M20.

You could just replace the stock fuel pump with the larger Bosch one and it will be fine.

Hope this info you out. I like what you have done to your car BTW keep up the good work.