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    Rattle/Slap/Knock

    My 1984 318i has a rattle/slap/knock thing going on when you first start it after it's been sitting about an 1hr or more. It goes away when the oil pressure light goes off (usually 1-2 seconds after start).

    After it's been decently warmed up, it will pull to redline smooth as butter.

    Once it gets fully warmed up, like 3/5-1/2 of the temp gauge, it will still pull smoothly but it is just noticeably noisier when doing so.

    Am I right to suspect the timing chain tensioner/guides? Or is the engine toast (bearings/pins/etc)?

    I recently did an oil change and put in 20w50 conventional.
    Ideas?


    #2
    Throw a new tensioner at it and see what happens. But it sounds like your oil pump and oil pump chain need replacing.

    Comment


      #3
      main bearing clearances are probably too loose.

      you're going to need to rebuild your motor, no mechanic in a can with fix that.
      Function.
      Form.
      sigpic

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        #4
        Is there any other tests I can do to check that?
        Other then tearing off the oilpan and bearing caps that is...

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          #5
          If you go out one day and it seems noticeably faster. prepare yourself cause its about to blow
          First: 1984 318i
          Second: 1987 325
          Third: 1987 325is
          Current: 1990 325i (Soon To Be 335i)

          Comment


            #6
            Mine has been doing that for months, it also goes through oil like crazy and on cold mornings it now takes 5+ seconds to build up pressure. Gotta love it, I still beat the crap out of this m10.

            Not worth the effort to rebuild imho, pick another motor, prep it and drop it in
            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

            Comment


              #7
              It doesn't take that long to build oil pressure and it also doesn't burn any oil (though it does have a slight leak at the oil pan gasket, but very minimal).

              I'm going to do the tensioner, and possibly the guide rail and see if it get's better.

              Comment


                #8
                Put the new chain tensioner, and the knock on startup is quieter and goes away quicker.
                The chain tensioner had a lot of wear on it, it might be the rail guide that is bad.

                I'm really hoping I don't have to do a motor swap...

                Comment


                  #9
                  You are quick! Should have done those at the same time though :)
                  Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                  OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I didn't because they didn't have it in stock.
                    It's on order.

                    Still hoping thats the problem, if not I guess I'm driving it til a rods comes out the side.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Probably cheaper to pick up an M10 than fix it. lol. Little things are slow but damn near indestructible.
                      1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.

                      Originally posted by DEV0 E30
                      You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Know of any for sale?
                        I'm willing to drive anywhere in AZ for one, or Las Cruces/El Paso is pretty close too...

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Damn. The chain tensioner rail is on back order...
                          And crap, I thought it was changeable by just removing the top timing chain cover, but I guess that isn't the case.

                          Well, for a whole timing cover seal kit, both guides and the tensioner, I'd be into M10 swap cost territory.
                          Shit. This car was supposed to be a decent daily warrior.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            And that's how it starts.
                            Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205



                            OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827

                            Comment

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