Clutch slipping

[Holland]

So basically I am led to believe that my clutch is stating to slip in my 318. I'm looking to now replace it soon so I have a few questions. Now before you tell me M20/M30 or 24v or bust I don't have the time or money for that at the moment. The M10 works well for my daily driver. What are my options for clutches go? I'm assuming I have the Getrag 240. I would like something decent because I'm debating on a turbo later down the road. I would like something that can manage a bit of power but I don't need it to be racing or anything. What other wear and tear parts should I be looking to replace at this time? Finally, do I have any options on flywheels? I have heard that these little motors need the heavier flywheels but I'm not entirely sure on that. I would like something a little lighter maybe just so it can rev a little faster? I would appreciate any inputs or opinions. Thanks.

[Holland]

bump?

[asubimmer]

you should weld more metal on your flywheel to get the weight up, or so I've heard...

[rThor432]

So basically I am led to believe that my clutch is stating to slip in my 318.

Led to believe by who?

Put the car in 4th or 5th gear at a low speed (ie. high load) and punch it to see if the clutch grabs or slips.

Then come back for more info.

[Holland]

Led to believe by who?

Put the car in 4th or 5th gear at a low speed (ie. high load) and punch it to see if the clutch grabs or slips.

Then come back for more info.

That's basically what it does.

[rThor432]

Cool. I'd just recommend the OEM Sach's clutch/pp/to kit. If you want something that is a bit more stout, go for the Sach's Sport kit. Not sure about the M10, but most of BMW's stock clutches handle a good bit of a power increase over stock.

[Holland]

Awesome. Should I be looking to replace the clutch slave as well as any other parts while doing this?

[Holland]

bump

[rThor432]

Anything you can afford to do would be nice.

If you want, replace the nylon pivot point for the pivot fork (that the t/o bearing rides on).

Do the clutch/pp/to kit. Lighten the flywheel if you have the time or put a lighter one in. Not sure what the standard M10 flywheel weighs, but after putting light flywheels in all of my M42, M20, and M/S5x cars I can tell you that it is a very worth-while upgrade (and I've experienced no drawbacks). Also, very important--- buy new flywheel bolts, or at the very least make sure to loc-tite the threads on the old flywheel bolts. Not necessarily to keep them in place, but theoretically to keep oil from seeping from the crankcase past the threads.

I noticed that you posed the question that heavy flywheels might help these motors-- They may help you out by adding a tiny bit of torque, but after swapping from a 28 lb flywheel to an 8 lb flywheel in my M42 I can tell you that it is a negligible loss, if there is any at all. My gains elsewhere were plenty enough to justify going lighter. A friend of mine is running the Euro Evo3 M3 light weight flywheel on his M10 and it works great. Just tossing that out there for reference for your specific motor.
If you feel up to it, do the rear main seal and pilot bearing. Some people have mixed opinions on the rear main seal replacement. I change them out pretty much any time the transmission is out (it's usually a minimum of ~80k before there is another failure inside the bellhousing, might as well). Some people figure that if it isnt leaking, it isnt worth messing with. If you gash the case when it is coming out you could leave it more prone to a quick leak in the future. So that's up to you. I'd definitely do the pilot bearing though, you'll need a slide hammer.

It's also nice to do the output flange and shifter seals on the back of the transmission. They like to leak, so that wouldnt be a bad idea while it's out.

It's also a good idea to rebuild the shift linkage with all new bushings if you havent already. The two that mount the sheet metal console to the transmission are very failure prone, as is the "L" shaped one from the back of the transmission. Check BMWfans.info or RealOEM.com for a picture and part numbers. You can put in a short shifter if you'd like (I'd recommend that too).

I usually dont change the slave cylinder if it isnt leaking, because it is easy enough to get at with everything in place. But it would be a smart move if everything is out and you dont mind spending a little extra to have a properly done and complete job. It'd be a nice touch.

I'm probably missing some little thing, but that should be a decent idea of some stuff to do while it's out.

[Holland]

Awesome, thank you very much.