i have a 1984 318i i received the car from a guy who let his kid change the oil, ran it w/out putting oil back in and seized the engine...bought a "new" engine for it, as well as a distributor, rotor, idle control valve, fuel pump (internal/external), fuel filter, starter, fan belts, and fuel pressure regulator.
k, so the Haynes/Chilton manuals go through test to run if your having problems with your car starting. ive already tested the fuel pumps, spark plugs, starter, and ignition coil, ignition control module, injection control module, fuel pump relay, throttle control (side on throttle butterfly), ecu, fuel injector resistance, and performed a continuity test based on a schematic wiring diagram i found specific to my car (ill upload later when i get a chance). ALL TESTS PAST ACCORDING TO HAYNES/CHILTON'S SPECIFICATIONS. the continuity check i performed passed, so i know there are no kinks or breaks in the wires. I will be running all of the tests again today and tomorrow, just for another go around.
so far the only part on my car i am missing is to the left of the air intake assembly; the Barometric pressure sensor. now some people say that not having this part wont matter, and that my car should start/run without it, others say that its the reason it wont stay running.
i was also using old gas in the car and a lot of people tried to say that was why it wouldn't stay running, but that doesn't seem possible to me.
Now when i turn the ignition on my car, it will start for a quick second, and then immediately die. i was told this is due to the cold start injector, so i know that works.
I have not performed a gas pressure test yet; didnt think i would need to since i bought 2 new fuel pumps, a filter, and a fuel pressure regulator, and the car started from the cold start so i assume that would mean i have the right pressure.
But even though i don't have a timing light, i went through months of research to make sure i wasn't 180° off for TDC, so im pretty sure that's fine, the distributor alignment could be wrong though.
The really weird thing is that when i start the car, as i mentioned, it shuts off....however, a few times i would try to start it while holding the pedal to the floor, or after it would start, id try to push down on the pedal, but the engine never revved!? The RPM needle didn't even move, and the engine didn't even "sense" that i was pushing down on the pedal. i checked the Throttle Position Sensor and it passed, and i checked my throttle cable and its connected and moves when i push down on the gas pedal?
k, so the Haynes/Chilton manuals go through test to run if your having problems with your car starting. ive already tested the fuel pumps, spark plugs, starter, and ignition coil, ignition control module, injection control module, fuel pump relay, throttle control (side on throttle butterfly), ecu, fuel injector resistance, and performed a continuity test based on a schematic wiring diagram i found specific to my car (ill upload later when i get a chance). ALL TESTS PAST ACCORDING TO HAYNES/CHILTON'S SPECIFICATIONS. the continuity check i performed passed, so i know there are no kinks or breaks in the wires. I will be running all of the tests again today and tomorrow, just for another go around.
so far the only part on my car i am missing is to the left of the air intake assembly; the Barometric pressure sensor. now some people say that not having this part wont matter, and that my car should start/run without it, others say that its the reason it wont stay running.
i was also using old gas in the car and a lot of people tried to say that was why it wouldn't stay running, but that doesn't seem possible to me.
Now when i turn the ignition on my car, it will start for a quick second, and then immediately die. i was told this is due to the cold start injector, so i know that works.
I have not performed a gas pressure test yet; didnt think i would need to since i bought 2 new fuel pumps, a filter, and a fuel pressure regulator, and the car started from the cold start so i assume that would mean i have the right pressure.
But even though i don't have a timing light, i went through months of research to make sure i wasn't 180° off for TDC, so im pretty sure that's fine, the distributor alignment could be wrong though.
The really weird thing is that when i start the car, as i mentioned, it shuts off....however, a few times i would try to start it while holding the pedal to the floor, or after it would start, id try to push down on the pedal, but the engine never revved!? The RPM needle didn't even move, and the engine didn't even "sense" that i was pushing down on the pedal. i checked the Throttle Position Sensor and it passed, and i checked my throttle cable and its connected and moves when i push down on the gas pedal?
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