85 318i Issues

[Hey_You]

Lucas fuel treatment.

Are you using it to preserve your fuel (for storage reasons) or are you trying to clean you fuel system? If you are doing it to save your gas from going bad, good choice, if you are trying to clean your fuel system (injectors & whatnot) then I suggest SeaFoam

[crazyman]

SeaFoam works good, I used a couple of times in one of my other rigs. Another onethat works good Red Line, I used it in all my quads so decided to try it in BMW and it works fantastic.

[Beach Bum]

Did you replace the coil yet? I've got one laying around if you need it.

What's the O2 sensor look like? Put a wideband on the tailpipe and check the AFR's yet? If the O2's bad, it could be dumping fuel and causing a misfire if the coil is providing a weak spark.

Also, crank up that timing! You can get a little bit more pep out of her by a little twist of the dizzy.

[sixty6falcon]

Thanks guys. I chose the Lucas for cleaning purposes. Dang it! I was debating between the Seafoam and Lucas but, went with Lucas cause it's a name I know. Oh well, I'll get some Seafoam.

I haven't replaced the coil. Not sure which O2 sensor I have. I checked the plugs. If anything, it's running a little lean.

I got a chance to work on the car, yesterday. I changed out every vacuum and coolant hose, under the hood. Also visited the junk yard and picked up an air temp sensor. Cleaned out the fuel rail, injector nozzles and sprayed a little carb & choke cleaner into the rail after I re-installed it. The car ran slightly better, but now wanted to die after idling for a couple minutes. I decided to time it, but couldn't see the #'s so I did it by ear. When I advanced it (just barely), It died immediately. So, I figure it was a little too advanced. I retarded it about 1/16th of a turn. It not only kept it running, but also helped smooth out the idle. Still not perfect though, so in the next couple weeks, I'll change out the coolant and O2 sensors. I'll keep ya posted.

[sixty6falcon]

I'll also be adjusting the valves.

[crazyman]

On the timing on those things I have found out the best way is to do it by ear cus the two BMW's I have owned never once used those stupid markings that say where it's suppose to be don't work. Then after you think have it where it needs it go take out for a test drive to make sure it doesn't knock or ping. If it does then adjust it accordingly. When adjusting valves it's a good idea to do it when it's all warmed up.

[sixty6falcon]

Thanks, crazyman. I'll be sure to have it warmed up. I've got a pdf version of the Bentley E30 repair manual & the 1300 pg BMW E30 repair manual, if anyone wants them. They're like 150mb each, but super handy.

[crazyman]

Sweet, hey can you send me the one with the most detailed wiring specs please. That will help alot towards the wiring for my m52 swap in my e30.
Thanks,
Chris

[sixty6falcon]

Sure. Let me figure out the best way to get it to you, and I'll let you know.

[crazyman]

Ok, if you need I can just pm you with my email address if that would be easier for you.

[a3ternus]

On the timing on those things I have found out the best way is to do it by ear cus the two BMW's I have owned never once used those stupid markings that say where it's suppose to be don't work. Then after you think have it where it needs it go take out for a test drive to make sure it doesn't knock or ping. If it does then adjust it accordingly. When adjusting valves it's a good idea to do it when it's all warmed up.

I did mess with the timing with the car cold and now I get fuel knocks if I step on it under 3000rpm! Should I back down a little?
I m new at this and cannt get it to work right...
The car is a monster (for a stock m10) after 5000rpm but I seem to lost torque down the revs.
N.

[sixty6falcon]

The knock is probably due to pre-ignition. You've probably advanced it just a little too far, which would explain the car being a monster at such high rpms. Make sure you're running premium fuel in the car, especially if you plan on advancing the timing beyond factory specs. I would also suggest backing the timing off a little.

[crazyman]

Well a fuel knock more or less is caused when your using to low a grade of octane, i.e what causes it is that the engine works to hard to ignite the air/fuel mixture and when it does that the mixture finish's igniting purely on compression. That could also be caused by needing a tune up really bad. Does it idle fast, or slow? Its hard to diagnose it without being there, but it sounds like to me is that it's to far advanced and needs to be turned counter clockwise and retard it a bit. The idle is the main thing you need to look at (as long as you haven't tried to adjust it yourself). If it idles high it needs to be retarded. If it idles really low and try's to stall out then it needs to be advanced. Hope this helps out. If you have any other questions let me know.

[Hey_You]

What is factory idle specs by the way? Mine idles at 1k, seems a little high, but not enough to bother me. Now when the vacuum line going to my intake came off, it was at 1500, that concerned me and I went on the hunt for the problem. Could running advanced make my car run rich as well?

[crazyman]

The factory idle specs is 850 to 900rpm, for both auto and manual. When you have a vacuum leak it idles high, or not run at all. So if that problem is fixed then you have no issue there. Running advanced will cause you to run rich and loose gas mileage. To far advanced will also make you car idle high. Mine holds steady at 900 to 1k, and the timing is dead on.