ok i have an 85 that i bought a few weeks ago and it has a problem when running i get these knocks while drving something i have read a lot of ppl are strugling with, my entire cooling system is new i have a new o2 senser and im running a low grade gas right now also i just had a hugle fuel leak in a line relpaced so could air be in the lines? and the knock came before the leak but it got wores after and the ideal got worse too. before i start buying parts were should i start last night the knock got really bad and the gas milliage gauge was acting up when a knock would happen so i think that could be bad gas o ( juat fueled up) or air in the lines from the fuel leak. should i change my fuel filter i know it good to do but can it get cloged were should i start with this
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can you tell where the knock is coming from? does it happen all the time?
If it's happening all the time I'm going to guess it's a mechanical issue inside the motor, not gas or anything like that.'84 318i M10B18 147- Safari Beige
NA: 93whp/90ftlbs, MS2E w/ LC, 2-Step
Turbo: 221whp/214ftlbs, MS3x flex @ 17psi
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Call progressive get full coverage set fire walk away now.sigpic"If one does not fail at times, then one has not challenged himself." -Ferdinand Porsche
The ugly car: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=209713
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it dose not happen all the time the inspection light is on all the time but the knock comes and gose my rev is also lower when its rainy whats with that? but the knock is not really a sound as much as a feel, i just didnt know what to call so i went with knock, when im driving it will feel like i hit a bump or something but i didnt and its not bad but really quick honestly it feels like its missing
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Have your valves adjusted, and perform a tune up (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter). Also check your timing to make sure that it's spot on. Start with the basics, and then move on from there. Honestly, with the m10, if there is any other noise than what sounds like an angry sewing machine, or just loud ticking, it's not right. The inspection light is probably your SI board burnt out. There is a way to reset the light by jumping 2 connections in your diagnostic port under the hood at the front of the engine (you can research that on your own). If you reset it, and the oil service, or inspection comes back up, your SI board is toast (like mine). Also, make sure you run 20w50 oil in your m10. It doesn't like light weight oils. Start there85' 318i ~The Bronze Bomber (FrankenM10 with a Forced Future :wgaf:)
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Originally posted by Hey_You View PostHonestly, with the m10, if there is any other noise than what sounds like an angry sewing machine, or just loud ticking, it's not right.1985 M10b18. 70maybewhpoffury. Over engineered S50b30 murica BBQ swap in progress.
Originally posted by DEV0 E30You'd chugg this butt. I know you would. Ain't gotta' lie to kick it brostantinople.
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Mine made a pop styled sound...I knew it wasn't normal, haha.85' 318i ~The Bronze Bomber (FrankenM10 with a Forced Future :wgaf:)
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You can do anything you want to your engine...with deep enough pockets. If you are looking for more spark, you can get some new wires (I got the performance set from bimmerworld, and I will NEVER buy them again, nor would I recommend them to anyone). They only lasted 4 days before all the plastic insulators in them were so brittle, they broke on their own. You can also upgrade your coil to an MSD like me and crazyman have. The MSD Blaster 3 is what I run (note: you probably will not notice the difference). Other option is to run Megasquirt and an EDIS 4 system. This is your most expensive route, but it's the best out of the options and gets rid of the distributor. Valve adjustments are not hard, just take time, and you need to have the correct tools for the job. If you don't adjust your valves correctly, it could be potentially terrible to your engine, as in goodbye valves and pistons.85' 318i ~The Bronze Bomber (FrankenM10 with a Forced Future :wgaf:)
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