So I've finally made my way to e30 ownership 2 years after my eta got wrecked, and the 85 318i that started and drove fine (aside from rough and high idle) the day I bought it hasn't ran since. Here's what I've done so far after searching through other people's problems:
Tested the fuel pump relay with 12v, seems to be operating fine, applying 12v from terminals 15-31, and then applying 12v at 50 allows continuity between 30 and 87/87b.
Jumpered 30-87/87b and heard at least one fuel pump (seemed to be the one under the car) buzzing along with something inside the engine bay buzzing.
Hooked up a multimeter to the starter positive lead and ground in the bay, showed 10-10.5 volts while cranking, 12.5-13 static
Used a timing light to verify #1-3 are firing, however, I get nothing from #4, even when swapping plugs and wires.
Cap and rotor look new
The AFM was supposedy replaced, and also looks new.
Pulled the valve cover off to make sure there weren't any broken compontents in there, and everything looked right, but there was a vapor coming out of the oil drain holes. ???
Throttle Position Switch Checked good for both closed and WOT switches
I removed the injectors and rail from the manifold along with the cold start valve and jumpered the fuel pump, nothing was stuck open or started leaking.
Removed vacuum line from FPR and jumpered fuel pump, no leak from vacuum line hookup
Injectors have been swapped with some spares I have, I think they're 325i injectors. I compared the flow rates of the part numbers installed in the car and my spares, and it's a difference of .5 lb per hour. Resistance was the same across the injectors.
With a fuel pressure guage installed before the rail, it holds 45psi while cranking.
Wire brushed the ground wire from valve cover to body, and attaching points.
To me it seems like there's too much fuel given the fact that it cranks better with the throttle wide open, but it seems like all the fuel components are checking out.After cranking for a few seconds, if I hold the throttle open, it almost starts, it did start once right after changing the plugs, but died as soon as I let off the throttle.
I don't understand what would cause #4 not to fire if the plug and wire aren't related and the cap and rotor look good. I'm gonna change plugs and the fuel filter just in case. The #4 plug had some kind of dirt all over it, although it could have just scraped against the outside of the engine on it's way out. I have't checked it again since replacing injectors, but I was thinking it could have just been related to too much fuel being in the cylinder.
I haven't checked compression yet, but can't think of how this would change from one start to another, at least in terms of not causing the engine to start at all.
Tested the fuel pump relay with 12v, seems to be operating fine, applying 12v from terminals 15-31, and then applying 12v at 50 allows continuity between 30 and 87/87b.
Jumpered 30-87/87b and heard at least one fuel pump (seemed to be the one under the car) buzzing along with something inside the engine bay buzzing.
Hooked up a multimeter to the starter positive lead and ground in the bay, showed 10-10.5 volts while cranking, 12.5-13 static
Used a timing light to verify #1-3 are firing, however, I get nothing from #4, even when swapping plugs and wires.
Cap and rotor look new
The AFM was supposedy replaced, and also looks new.
Pulled the valve cover off to make sure there weren't any broken compontents in there, and everything looked right, but there was a vapor coming out of the oil drain holes. ???
Throttle Position Switch Checked good for both closed and WOT switches
I removed the injectors and rail from the manifold along with the cold start valve and jumpered the fuel pump, nothing was stuck open or started leaking.
Removed vacuum line from FPR and jumpered fuel pump, no leak from vacuum line hookup
Injectors have been swapped with some spares I have, I think they're 325i injectors. I compared the flow rates of the part numbers installed in the car and my spares, and it's a difference of .5 lb per hour. Resistance was the same across the injectors.
With a fuel pressure guage installed before the rail, it holds 45psi while cranking.
Wire brushed the ground wire from valve cover to body, and attaching points.
To me it seems like there's too much fuel given the fact that it cranks better with the throttle wide open, but it seems like all the fuel components are checking out.After cranking for a few seconds, if I hold the throttle open, it almost starts, it did start once right after changing the plugs, but died as soon as I let off the throttle.
I don't understand what would cause #4 not to fire if the plug and wire aren't related and the cap and rotor look good. I'm gonna change plugs and the fuel filter just in case. The #4 plug had some kind of dirt all over it, although it could have just scraped against the outside of the engine on it's way out. I have't checked it again since replacing injectors, but I was thinking it could have just been related to too much fuel being in the cylinder.
I haven't checked compression yet, but can't think of how this would change from one start to another, at least in terms of not causing the engine to start at all.
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