Saying Hello/Progress Thread

[ruizl300]

High Idle

^^^
+1 on the pics... I would like to see as well before I go ahead and do it.


I lately have been getting a High idle. Maybe I did something wrong when changing the valve cover gasket and didnt tighten a hose or tightened the gasket improperly... Ill check for vac leaks. But it revs to like 2000rpm and just sits there. And then after a while I turn it off and turn it on and it still revs at like 1200rpms.

My MPG decreased with this last tank to 21mpg and I blame the high idle situation. Hopefully I can get this fixed as I drive 1600miles a month and it makes a difference on the $$ spent over so many miles. $72 difference to be more accurate.

So this is what I will be checking.
1. Vacuum leaks (using carb cleaner)
2. Coolant Temperature Sensor

Any input on this will also help.

[Hey_You]

Check the vacuum line going from your fuel pressure regulator to the intake manifold, that one can slip off easy if it's old rubber. If I were you, I would delete the idle control valve to eliminate many possible vacuum leaks.

[ruizl300]

I checked for vacuum leaks and did not find any. I still need to check the Coolant Temp. Sensor.

Have you tested a CTS before?
any hints?

I was thinking about deleting the ICV, but how is it on cold starts? How long do I need to hold the gas down untill it will idle on its own? and what RPM do I hold i at?

[thebutterson]

I checked my coolant temp sensor in a pot of water that I slowly heated up. As it heats up the resistance will change. Do you have a bentley manual? It tells you how to test the sensors. I used it to find a bad coolant switch/sender.

[ruizl300]

Yeah I downloaded it already, ok. Thanks, I never thought about doing it that way.

[Hey_You]

Well, I haven't started my car on a COLD morning yet, but with my warm idle adjusted to about 800-850 rpm, it will start and idle around 600 when cold. Just need to open the throttle using the gas peddle a little bit to get it started. My car will idle fine when it's cold. I don't have any stalling issues. I don't need to give it any gas to keep an idle. Not sure if this will be the case with your engine or not.

[ruizl300]

Thanks Hey_you, I will look into the process seems like a good way to avoid idle issues, or atleast one less thing to worry about.


So I tested the Coolant Temp Sensor yesterday right after my 1hr drive home in both heavy and light traffic. It read 183ohms.... I am confused? I dont know what that means since this is the first time i deal with this. But the specs should be between 270-400ohms if I have been driving it at its hottest. Really confused. Maybe its reading incorrectly idk.

[thebutterson]

When I tested mine, I started from about 50 degrees F and went to about 200F. I used the same digital thermomoter I use to heat up water for my coffee and the resistance changed in a linear pattern with the values falling within the bently specs.

[ruizl300]

I did a quick check, I have more time today and ill take it out and do the same test you did. Im thinking of just going and buying a new one since they are only 15$.

[ruizl300]

ICV delete

So I took out the CTS and heated up the water and it changed resistance linearly, I didnt have a Thermometer so I could check if they fell in spec. That will have to wait for another day.

I did however delete the CTS. And that got rid of the ridiculously high idle. I set the idle with the throttle adjustment screw to a place where the engine didnt sound to be forcing itself. My tachometer isnt marking right so I couldnt go based on that.

So is it harmful if I put the idle too low?

On my way to work this morning I noticed that the idle was about 3000 rpms higher than I had set it yesterday. I think my CTS is not working correctly. That will be known as soon in the next couple of days.

[ruizl300]

Need to update.

1. I installed a new coolant Temp sensor and I didnt see a change in the RPM, still climbs after it warms up about 500 rpms compared to when first turned on.

So any tips on this would be great.

2. A few days a go the car started to shut down. I finally tested the in tank pump and it wasnt working. Ordered a new one and its on its way.

Will update in a couple days.

[ruizl300]

#1 no update. Still climbs about 500rpm after when warmed up.

#2 I posted in another post but the transfer pump gave out.

I changed the transfer pump and turned on and ran for about 10min. and was good. I then drove later that night and after 5min shut down and didnt want to start. Fuel relay felt real hot and no power was going to the fuel pump. After a trip to ecology auto part and 10$ car runs well. Fuel Pump relay was out, and now its running again and staying running.

[thebutterson]

$10 for a fuel relay? That's a great deal. When I was looking for one every auto store wanted to charge me $100 for one.

[ruizl300]

That was at a junk yard... Ive also had success with Rockauto when I need parts. They go for about 70$.

[ruizl300]

Clutch issue!

Well everything has been good so far engine-wise. I was out last weekend and my car just sat for about 5 days. I went to drive it on sunday and the clutch was so soft, the car wouldnt go in gear. I looked and didnt see any leaks (Prob dried up since it sat for 5 days.) but there was no brake fluid in the master cylinder container. So I guess this is the priority at the moment. Any tips to look for would be appreciate it.