Then the next step is to make sure the distributor is spinning the rotor, and to inspect the rotor and cap for damage. If the 'spark' voltage is getting sent out of the coil and making it to the cap, but not from the cap to a plug, the problem can only be that the cap is failing to conduct the voltage, the rotor is failing to conduct the voltage, or is not contacting 2 points in the cap to make a circuit, or the spark plug wires or plugs themselves are bad.
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no current from distributor to spark plugs only!
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Originally posted by Andy.B View PostThen the next step is to make sure the distributor is spinning the rotor, and to inspect the rotor and cap for damage. If the 'spark' voltage is getting sent out of the coil and making it to the cap, but not from the cap to a plug, the problem can only be that the cap is failing to conduct the voltage, the rotor is failing to conduct the voltage, or is not contacting 2 points in the cap to make a circuit, or the spark plug wires or plugs themselves are bad.
i know the rotor spins because i checked that too.
again, thanks for you input Andy, very much appreciated for the input2007 Mazda CX-7 (red TURBO!!)
1985 BMW 318i.... beige!
2007 Suzuki GSX-R 600 (red)
previous cars
1) 1994 Isuzu Trooper (blue)
2) 2005 Scion tC (panda w/ CF)
3) 2001 Toyota Avalon (silver)
4) 1988 Nissan Pulsar XE (T top in red)
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yeah, take the coil wire off the dist. place near strut tower and crank, if you see spark, pull a wire off the plug, and put a screwdriver in it. place the bare metal of the screw driver near the strut tower and crank, to check for spark that way too, just to move it down the line.
sigpic1984 318i Total conversion to a DIRT race car.
Check out our build on facebook @ www.facebook.com/brewstermotorsports
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The distributors job is just to spin the rotor inside the cap, essentially. the rotor and cap direct the 'spark', and if the rotor is spinning, its doing it's job.
(The distributor does control timing advance and retard as well, but we need to have a spark, and the starting point for the timing set first, before worrying about any of the guts of the distributor).
Have you checked more than one spark plug and wire?
Can you take a few pictures and upload them? Can we see a picture of the rotor, and one of the inside of the cap? Also a shot of the distributor as it sits on the engine now?
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thanks for the input guys, ill work on the car this weekend and post pics and video2007 Mazda CX-7 (red TURBO!!)
1985 BMW 318i.... beige!
2007 Suzuki GSX-R 600 (red)
previous cars
1) 1994 Isuzu Trooper (blue)
2) 2005 Scion tC (panda w/ CF)
3) 2001 Toyota Avalon (silver)
4) 1988 Nissan Pulsar XE (T top in red)
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ok problem fixed.
i am truly and idiot. i hope others do not make the same mistake.
the problem was NOT the dizzy or ICM but the IGNITION COIL itself.
sigh, should have went through the proper procedures.
if the primary & secondary resistance on the ignition coil is out of spec, it is bad. get a new one. the specs should be in the bentley
primary resistance
TCI system (which was my car) .82 ohms
motronic .50 ohms
secondary resistance
TCI system 8250 ohms
motronic 5000-6000 ohms
if your numbers do not read these exact or in range. the ignition coil is on its way out or out already.
cheers2007 Mazda CX-7 (red TURBO!!)
1985 BMW 318i.... beige!
2007 Suzuki GSX-R 600 (red)
previous cars
1) 1994 Isuzu Trooper (blue)
2) 2005 Scion tC (panda w/ CF)
3) 2001 Toyota Avalon (silver)
4) 1988 Nissan Pulsar XE (T top in red)
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