M10 rough running/repair log

[4bangerfury]

I don't know exactly what it does, but it has no direct connection to the ICV.

From what I can figure out, it has something to do with going from part throttle to closed throttle. For some reason the ground lead of the fuel injectors goes through the relay and that's what was causing the intermittent cutting out.

[Acet]

Great. Glad to hear youre all operational man! So do you happen to know if the idle control module which you replaced controls the icv or vac advance? Im guessing the icv but not quite sure. The reason why I ask if maybe there is a way to bypass that relay if the icv is gone. Maybe stupid question but just wondering. Thanks

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[4bangerfury]

Turner. I wasn't getting any responses for used ones until I already purchased the one from Turner. Considering how much better the car drives now, I don't mind spending the extra. If I ever get some free time, I would love to take apart the old one and figure out what went wrong.

[Acet]

so did you find a used one or did you buy one from turner?

[4bangerfury]

Going from left to right: fuel pump, idle stabilization, vacuum advance.

Part number from realoem for the idle stabilization relay is 13411708511. i'm kinda lazy to run outside and take a picture right now.

[gettinscurvy]

Bypassing the vacuum valve on the firewall had no effect on the rough running issue, but I may have found the culprit. This is the sound the idle stabilization relay was making when the car was acting up:



That is with the engine off, key in the run position. Once it stopped clicking wildly like that, the car seemed to run normally. It makes sense since the according to the wiring diagrams the injectors are grounded through that relay.

OK! So, the fuel pump relay is on the left and the idle stabilization relay is on the right, what is that relay in the center? Also, could you take a picture of the part number for me?

[gettinscurvy]

change over relay?

[4bangerfury]

I'm gonna say the rough running issue is fixed. Replaced the change over relay, and it runs like a completely different engine. So much nicer.

Just waiting on the hoses for the ICV to come in and I should have a fully operational m10. Then I can finally focus on fixing the rust on this car.

[4bangerfury]

When that relay isn't acting up, and when the car will idle without having an ICV installed, it runs like a champ.

I haven't checked the compression yet. I've never actually done one, I always used a leakdown tester back home, but I don't have access to that tester right now. Someday I'll buy one of my own.

[Acet]

Well I jumped on your wtb thread with someone else on here and seems like a few ppl are having similar issue.

I fixed all the vac lines and idle today so that sucker is the only thing I must address before I pull the head.

Other than the intermittent sputter, hows your m10 running overall? Also, have you measured the compression in your m10? What should the good numbers read? 160ish?

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[4bangerfury]

I'm trying to find a replacement for that relay. Once I have a working one, I'll think about taking the broken one apart and trying to figure out what went wrong. Would be nice to have a spare/figure out how it works. I see new ones from Germany on Turner for $127.

Now it's kinda funny to drive around. When it starts acting up, i pull over and tap that relay with the handle of a screwdriver until it stops being an artard. Could be placebo effect/good timing when i pull over to tap on that relay, but it seems to work out alright.

[Acet]

Yep! Same thing here! That middle box in your image, it clicks sporadically everytime the car runs like shit. And youre exactly right, the car can be off and it will still be clicking.

Also, from what I understand here is what bypassing the valve does: the vac advance adjusts timing (advances it or retards it) as it gets vac from that electric aux valve which in turn gets its vac from intake mani. If the valve is disfunctional in any way, that could hinder the vac advance functionality and you would theoretically experience a decrease in performance while in lower gears because the vac advance wouldnt be adjusting the timing to compensate for whatever goes on.

By connecting the vac advance to I take mani directly would ensure that the vac advance is actually performing its function.

What do you think is the way to go about that box?

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[4bangerfury]

Bypassing the vacuum valve on the firewall had no effect on the rough running issue, but I may have found the culprit. This is the sound the idle stabilization relay was making when the car was acting up:



That is with the engine off, key in the run position. Once it stopped clicking wildly like that, the car seemed to run normally. It makes sense since the according to the wiring diagrams the injectors are grounded through that relay.

[4bangerfury]

I think I'll try bypassing the vacuum valve on the way home from work, see if that puts a stop to the loss of power/bucking issue while driving after warmup.

After reconnecting that wire, the idle is hit and miss. When it's below 60 degrees, she idles like nothing is wrong. Above 60 degrees and the idle fluctuates a lot, like it's trying to control the ICV that isn't there yet.

[Acet]

It's still an intermittent problem. I was checking wiring and found this little guy not in the connector:



It was the wire going from the closed throttle switch to the idle stabilization relay. Immediate results after were disappointing. After heating up, the car could not stabilize the idle with the throttle switch closed. Just barely opening the throttle made it run normally.

I left it like that, figuring I would just keep the throttle barely open on the drive to work this morning for now. Then everything runs fine this morning. No hiccups whatsoever. no idle issues. The car really does seem to run better when it's cooler outside.

I did order an ICV and idle controller supposedly from a running car. I figured it can't hurt to try.

What do you guys think about removing the aux air valve? It is connected to the wiring harness, so I'm wondering if it is being controlled or if it has a sensor and sending something back to the ECU. I haven't seen any wiring diagrams with the aux air valve in it.

Glad to hear youre making head way! Maybe the dme needed some time to recalculate or reset something due to new signal,
Who knows? Hopefully it will resolve the issue, at least partially.

My m10 runs relatively well, considering that all plug threads are stripped and spark plugs are just sitting there, but after a lot of driving in traffic or when hot outside, my car acts weird like yours. Sometimes it just hickups but sometimes it looks like im banging the clutch pedal in 1st gear. Car jerks a lot and wont go anywhere. So anyways everytime this happens, I go under the hood and there is intermittent clicking from the black rectangular box which that plug connects to. Just throwing it out there..

I was reading some threads on here and saw that some people bipassed the electric vacuum valve (aux valve?) and ran the vac line straight from intake mani to vac advance on the dizzy. I did that and my car drives so much better now. I didnt notice that much difference in idle but engine is more smooth through out my crippled powerband. I think next ill delete the ICV and adjust the idle via throttle plate screw. The only downside of removing the icv from what I read was that you have to let your car warm up good on colder days.

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