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1985 318i no 12volts to coil

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    1985 318i no 12volts to coil

    Hi, new to the forum.

    Just bought a clean 1985 BMW 318i 2door that is not running. Body is clean, appears to be original (tan) paint, not signs of collision damage, interior is good for age and hardly any rust.

    Installed new battery, has fuel and fuel pressure, cranks but won't fire. Jumped 12 volts to + side of coil, will start and run... sounds good until you remove jumper lead to coil, then dies. Sounds like not getting 12 volts from ignition switch to coil?? Any ideas, checked fuses.... seem OK, any relays or circuit breakers that might be oxidized that I could check. Car has been sitting no run for two or three years.

    Thanks

    #2
    This sounds promising. Maybe follow this writeup someone gave me for my M10?

    "For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

    Power on DME pins:
    27 Start Input
    18 Un-switched Power input
    37 Power Input from Main Relay

    Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

    Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

    To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
    from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
    controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
    output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

    To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
    pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
    respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
    three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
    injectors is controlled by the main relay.

    The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
    output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
    relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
    is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
    11.

    The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the to wires
    that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
    in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
    main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
    DME.

    Troubleshooting:

    Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

    1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
    DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

    2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560
    ohms. If the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change
    from about 500 to 540-540 when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
    sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

    3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
    pump relay 85.

    Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 0.040"), plug the
    relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
    following checks:

    1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
    86 & 30.

    2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
    18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
    injectors and fuel pump relay.

    3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
    14, 19, 24).

    4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
    pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

    The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
    DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
    necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

    IMPORTANT:

    A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
    you measure across the batter terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
    charged battery.

    A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

    An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

    A good quality auto-ranging Digital Multimeter will make these tests much
    easier."

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by gettinscurvy View Post
      This sounds promising. Maybe follow this writeup someone gave me for my M10?

      "For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

      Power on DME pins:
      27 Start Input
      18 Un-switched Power input
      37 Power Input from Main Relay

      Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

      Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

      To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
      from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
      controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
      output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

      To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
      pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
      respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
      three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
      injectors is controlled by the main relay.

      The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
      output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
      relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
      is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
      11.

      The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the to wires
      that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
      in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
      main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
      DME.

      Troubleshooting:

      Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

      1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
      DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

      2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560
      ohms. If the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change
      from about 500 to 540-540 when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
      sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

      3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
      pump relay 85.

      Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 0.040"), plug the
      relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
      following checks:

      1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
      86 & 30.

      2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
      18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
      injectors and fuel pump relay.

      3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
      14, 19, 24).

      4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
      pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

      The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
      DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
      necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

      IMPORTANT:

      A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
      you measure across the batter terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
      charged battery.

      A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

      An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

      A good quality auto-ranging Digital Multimeter will make these tests much
      easier."
      where can i get more info on how to check the DME?
      2007 Mazda CX-7 (red TURBO!!)
      1985 BMW 318i.... beige!
      2007 Suzuki GSX-R 600 (red)

      previous cars
      1) 1994 Isuzu Trooper (blue)
      2) 2005 Scion tC (panda w/ CF)
      3) 2001 Toyota Avalon (silver)
      4) 1988 Nissan Pulsar XE (T top in red)

      Comment


        #4
        ok update.

        got my hands on another DME... nothing changed.

        car starts then dies immediately.

        any other thoughts? i replaced the coil, dizzy, plugs, leads, ECM, DME, battery, fuel relay, secondary fuel pump (external), fuel filter, cleaned the injectors.

        i tested the coil and i get the proper resistance
        the car fires up so the dizzy is correct.
        the fuel pump is primed and runnign when the key is switched to ON (no buzzing from fuel relay)

        i feel like there is no signal from the DME to the spark plugs.
        2007 Mazda CX-7 (red TURBO!!)
        1985 BMW 318i.... beige!
        2007 Suzuki GSX-R 600 (red)

        previous cars
        1) 1994 Isuzu Trooper (blue)
        2) 2005 Scion tC (panda w/ CF)
        3) 2001 Toyota Avalon (silver)
        4) 1988 Nissan Pulsar XE (T top in red)

        Comment

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