change over relay

[loki_]

The auto and manual M10 have the same change over relay, pn 13411708511. They all have 9 pins.


https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=12_1513



I was having a horrible intermittent bucking that ended up being the connector for the change over relay. The female end connector inside the plug were loose. I popped it open and reseated them.

[Dillone30]

9pin or 10pin

Im have an issue. Im dealing with my injection idle control change over relay. My 1985 318i m10 runs a 9pin. All i can find online is 10pin. Is that because i have a manual trans. Is the extra pin for automatic? Will the 10pin still work?

[gettinscurvy]

ok you m10 engine owners!

my car starts but dies right away. ive practically changed everything i could.

fuel pump (secondary), fuel pump relay, distributor, leads, ignition coil, ICM, DME (ECU), fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, new spark plugs

i cleaned the injectors, tested the AFM for resistants, tested the coil (old and new), DME (ECU, old & new) created no change, spark plugs (old & new) produce a spark, leads (old & new) both produce a spark, new fuel relay stopped the annoying buzzing, tested the fuel pressure with a fuel pressure gauge and i am getting correct and plenty of pressure.

ok now the question:

how do you know if the change over relay's are messed up? is there a way to check these?

and what do they actually do?
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...13&hg=12&fg=35

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/10358/Relay-Change-Over-13411708511/#axzz32wTkvGwo

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-19...-bmw-part.aspx


this change over relay is closest to the driver


would the middle change over relay be the "MAIN RELAY" that everyone is talking about?

Left to right: fuel pump relay, vacuum advance relay, idle stabilization relay

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[bullywagon]

Have you checked the icv? If it is blocked it will die with no throttle input.

[hahaitzskippy]

ok good news... the new part came in from germany and it worked... sorta

the car still fires up and dies. but this time, i am able to keep my foot on the pedal and keep the engine alive. but once i let go it dies again.

i tried this using the new relay, then old then new again. only worked with the new relay... so i guess we are moving in the right direction.

maybe i should go back and check all previous steps again to ensure everything is still working properly. what do you all think?

i think it could be a vacuum issue or any other issue that forces the car to stall aka not idle properly... sigh

[hahaitzskippy]

i just purchased this bad boy here! https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...in-13411708511

should come in next week. i will keep everyone updated.

[4bangerfury]

Yes, my car has been running great since replacing the change over relay. It only recently went to shit (last friday) went to shit. Still trying to diagnose the issue.

[hahaitzskippy]

Take it out and bang it on the ground. Maybe it will crank

HAHAHA funny thing is i tried this (knowing it will not work). and guess what? nothing happened... LOL

I'm the member that bought one from turner. My car has been running fine until a few days ago. Pretty sure it's a vacuum issue this time, nothing to do with the replacement idle stabilization relay. The new one is not clicking wildly like the old one did.

I got curious and pulled it apart:


Nothing obviously burnt out, and i was really surprised to see a PIC microcontroller in there. If I get really ambitious, i wouldn't mind desoldering the uc and seeing what if any kind of program is left on there.

wait did you car start working after you replaced it?
and recently, your car stopped working and you think it is a vacuum issue?

i was thinking about buying one from turner, testing it, and returning it if it doesnt solve the issue.

my car fires up, even with the gas pedal MASHED to the ground, the car will not stay on. i doubt my issue is a vacuum issue (if you were implying that, if not then no biggie).

[4bangerfury]

I'm the member that bought one from turner. My car has been running fine until a few days ago. Pretty sure it's a vacuum issue this time, nothing to do with the replacement idle stabilization relay. The new one is not clicking wildly like the old one did.

I got curious and pulled it apart:


Nothing obviously burnt out, and i was really surprised to see a PIC microcontroller in there. If I get really ambitious, i wouldn't mind desoldering the uc and seeing what if any kind of program is left on there.

[Acet]

Take it out and bang it on the ground. Maybe it will crank

[hahaitzskippy]

I hate when people ignore my threads so I figured id post what I know. Your injectors are grounded through the idle stabilization relay and if its bad, then the symptoms will be what you're describing.

I remember a member on here found one from Turner, I believe, for around $100.

Mine is in the process of dying and heres what I experience:
I can be cruising on the highway and all of a sudden complete power loss. This can last from a fraction of a second to several seconds and then the car kicks back on. Usually it does this when the car gets warmed up and the bay is hot. With that said, I can head it clicking inside (such as a relay) when im experiencing problems with power loss/stalling.

A month ago I got really freaking pissed at it and bashed it with a screwdriver handle until it made its way in about 25% below the other two. Now it works great so I guess I fixed it :D

these were the EXACT symptoms i had for about 2 weeks before my car crapped out.

Ya i sat this on Turner too. i will be running additional tests this weekend in hopes i can isolate the issue to this.

if not, sigh, this e30 is a money pitt that never ends...

thanks for the reply

[Acet]

I hate when people ignore my threads so I figured id post what I know. Your injectors are grounded through the idle stabilization relay and if its bad, then the symptoms will be what you're describing.

I remember a member on here found one from Turner, I believe, for around $100.

Mine is in the process of dying and heres what I experience:
I can be cruising on the highway and all of a sudden complete power loss. This can last from a fraction of a second to several seconds and then the car kicks back on. Usually it does this when the car gets warmed up and the bay is hot. With that said, I can head it clicking inside (such as a relay) when im experiencing problems with power loss/stalling.

A month ago I got really freaking pissed at it and bashed it with a screwdriver handle until it made its way in about 25% below the other two. Now it works great so I guess I fixed it :D

[hahaitzskippy]

In the wiring diagram I have, the middle relay is called the vacuum advance control relay and the one closest to the drivers side it the idle speed stabilization relay. Are they the same relay? Can you swap them?

When you start the car, does it die no matter what you do or can you sustain it with the throttle?

the vacuum advance control relay and the speed stabilization relay cannot be swapped. they are different relays.

[hahaitzskippy]

The fuel pump relay is supposed to get some sort of rpm signal in order to keep the contact once the car is started. You may want to look into that. I've also heard there is a switch on the afm that will cut off fuel if there is no airflow, but I have never found evidence of that. You might want to look into the rpm sensor in the distributor and make sure the wires are in good shape to the ecu and fuel relay and then maybe try jumping the fuel relay to see what happens.


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before i got a new fuel pump relay, the car would not start. i bought a new one and the car starts and dies (current situation).

the distributor is new as well.

i guess i will need to check for continuity between all the wires.

does anyone know which pins on the fuel pump lead to the ECU/DME?

[thebutterson]

The fuel pump relay is supposed to get some sort of rpm signal in order to keep the contact once the car is started. You may want to look into that. I've also heard there is a switch on the afm that will cut off fuel if there is no airflow, but I have never found evidence of that. You might want to look into the rpm sensor in the distributor and make sure the wires are in good shape to the ecu and fuel relay and then maybe try jumping the fuel relay to see what happens.


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