M10 plug wire order

[Griffin]

I know the subject sounds odd, but here's my story.

The car runs, but I'm fairly certain the timing is off. I know this because I made it run better by changing the timing, but just by ear. The car used to ping like crazy and now it runs much better. When I got the car, the distributor cap was on backward... meaning the notch wasn't lined up. I had to thus pull all wires off and reinstall. I have the proper firing order but I'm not sure I have the wires in the right places on the distributor to facilitate timing light usage.

Which distributor hole contains your #1 plug wire?

Is the #1 plug supposed to be at the vac advance diaphragm?

[alor]

Yes it is the hole above the vacuum advance. I think that there is a notch in the top of the distributor where the cap rests that also corresponds to the number one position.

Have fun timing the engine. I have heard of people timing the engine based on performance, keeping it below the point of pinging. I know on mine, if the timing is advanced too much the idle gets too high.

Alan

[Griffin]

Thanks, I had it right in the first place. I figure it could only be out by 180 degrees at most anyway due to the nature of a 4 stroke.

[alor]

I will be curious to know how your timing with a light goes. I have found lately, although I have been setting the timing on my '84 318i for years, that the ball doesn't stay stationary at the elevated rpm of 2500rpm that I set the timing at. It jumps around. I can see it at 1000 rpm and then it moves out of view as I raise the rpms. I don't think that it used to be visible at idle. The sticker on the wheel well calls for the timing to be set at 2000 (this is the figure for the model of distributor in this car), but I find that the car runs better with it set at 2500.

Have I forgotten how to set the timing, or is my distributor acting in a different manner from what it used to? This is a question I have been asking myself lately.

Alan

[angelus5012]

1-3-4-2

[tiger318i]

...Car Starts but immediately stops. when i press down on the gas pedal i get no revving action, but i see the RPM needle move slightly as it attempts to start..i own the Haynes and Chilton Manual.

1984 318i---> New:
Distributor Cap, Rotor, Spark Plugs (gauged wrong though i think), Fuel Pump (internal/external), Starter, Fuel Pressure Regulator, Air Intake Boot.

Tests Performed:
Ignition Coil, Fuel Pumps and Fuel Pump Relay, TPS (Throttle Positioning Sensor), Signal from Distributor, Ignition Control Module, ECU, Injectors (Resistance & Voltage), Injection Control Module, Continuity check of the wires for the Fuel Delivery System)...All Tests Passed with flying colors...

i am left to believe that its the timing/positioning of the Distributor...
i had to remove it in the past and now I'm no longer 100% sure i inserted it properly.
After doing much research i found the point at the front of the engine where the notch on the drive shaft is supposed to line up (manual crank with socket), and i also see the steel ball in the bell housing window of the transmission.
like i said before the car starts initially and then immediately dies.

currently i have been setting the distributor as such...
After i find the steel ball in the bell housing i insert the distributor, making sure that the Rotor is pointing at the notch in the Distributor Housing. next i place the distributor/rotor assembly into the engine compartment. this is where things get tricky because after inserting it, it rotates to the left. im not sure if its supposed to be pointing at the notch after its put in the engine, or line it up with the notch and then put it in the engine slot...

ive seen 15 different diagrams for the positioning of the spark plug wires on the distributor cap..
some state that the No.1 spark plug should be the port closest to the firewall, ive seen others that have it as the one closest to the battery. The Haynes book mentions something about the distributor needing to be set to 15° before Top Dead Center!?....

I know this is a big favor to ask, but i would greatly appreciate the help
Removed Distributor when swapping to another m10 and now i dont know if its set up right...
Do you think that after setting your car to TDC, you could remove your distributor cap and take a picture of it, so i can see THE EXACT Position of the Rotor/Distributor, and Where the exact position of the No.1 Spark Plug,

[tiger318i]

IT LIVES!
Got it to start, run, and idle over the weekend...i had previously tested the resistance and voltage going to the injectors and they were good, but it was due to the injectors being old and prob gummed up with the old fuel; not allowing the fuel into the engine, THANKS EVERYONE.

Stage 2: Brakes, possibly rotors, control arms, bushings, tie rods, Ball Joints, brake lines, Clutch

[Rampelsauce]

i am left to believe that its the timing/positioning of the Distributor...
i had to remove it in the past and now I'm no longer 100% sure i inserted it properly.

Too bad you dont live near by. Seems like we're going thru the same crap at the same time, haha. Do you drive a Bronzit 84 318i too?