My first E30, its taken apart....help pls.

[vr2jetta]

First thing I would do is take a look at the areas where you were working last. Double check all electrical connectors. (In particular, the AFM and ICV.) You're sure you have spark? If so, then it is either air or fuel. Too little or too much of one. (Vacuum leaks come to mind first, especially if you were replacing the intake boot.)

If it ran last night, there's no good reason that it shouldn't run again today.

Well, it did run last night with the crappy boot. I changed it and put a clamp on the isv hose because it was starting to split. I am positive I have spark to the spark plugs, at least to #6 and #4. I checked 2 terminals. I am sure I am getting fuel because I can smell it after cranking for a while. I did notice fuel building up in the intake boot after cranking a while too, is this normal? The only thing I can think of is the vacuum line going from the intake the the fpr is a little smaller than normal, but it ran last night with that size hose. Also, I tied up the 3 wires going across the front of the motor making sure they did not come in contact with the water pump pulley. I used the factory plastic cover but could not figure out how it attached to the timing cover since I did not take it apart, so I zip tied them up. Maybe I will double check them. After cranking for about 7-10 seconds it sounds like it is wanting to start but never gets there. These are timed through the ecu right? There is no way to adjust it manually?

[vr2jetta]

So I just came back inside from trying again and still nothing, so I pulled the spark plugs and every one of them were dry except #2. All of them had fuel on the threads but #2 had fuel on the threads and tip of the plug. Could it be bad plugs. I know this sounds crazy but I am using the ones from the head pulled from the junkyard, they appear good and they are bosch platinums with the v-groove tip. The only reason I havent replaced them is because I have dumped $$$$ everywhere else trying to get this running......new head, head gasket set, water pump, thermostat, fan clutch, timing belt, tensioner, intake boot, fuel line, vacuum line, and a few other things I cant remember.

[vr2jetta]

I did notice fuel building up in the intake boot after cranking a while too, is this normal?

I was doing some research and was wondering, could this be from the valve adjustment being too tight and the valves not closing all the way? Could that be why it wont start now and ran crappy last night? It seemed to run crappy at low rpms but when I revved it up (last night) it was smoother. Anybody have this problem? I called a buddy and he checked the bentley and he said the valves were to be adjusted to .010. The thread I was reading said they were to be adjusted at .025.

[jmc1590]

Well, it did run last night with the crappy boot. I changed it and put a clamp on the isv hose because it was starting to split.

ISV? Perhaps the Idle Control Valve hose? (Should connect to the metalic cylinder next to the throttle body.) Did the vacuum boost line fit snug and is it clamped? (Other side of the intake boot.)

I am positive I have spark to the spark plugs, at least to #6 and #4. I checked 2 terminals.

Checked how? And define "terminals."

I am sure I am getting fuel because I can smell it after cranking for a while. I did notice fuel building up in the intake boot after cranking a while too, is this normal?

Fuel pooling in the intake boot? No, not normal. I can't think of anything that would cause or allow fuel to enter that side of the throttle body.

The only thing I can think of is the vacuum line going from the intake the the fpr is a little smaller than normal, but it ran last night with that size hose.

If the vacuum line fits snuggly on the manifold port and on the FPR, it's the correct size.

Also, I tied up the 3 wires going across the front of the motor making sure they did not come in contact with the water pump pulley. I used the factory plastic cover but could not figure out how it attached to the timing cover since I did not take it apart, so I zip tied them up. Maybe I will double check them.

The three sets of wires are the Crank Position Sensor, the Cylinder ID, and a small bundle that should contain the leads to the coil, the oil pressure sender, and the AC indicator. (Or at least that's what I have on my harness.) Just verify that none of them have been damaged by the pulley and are all still connected. (I had an old CPS connector that was a royal pain to get "latched" in place.) As far as the wire cover goes, there should be two small cllips that attach to the upper timing cover. The wire cover snaps into those from the top.

After cranking for about 7-10 seconds it sounds like it is wanting to start but never gets there. These are timed through the ecu right? There is no way to adjust it manually?

Yes, the ECU handles all of the timing. There are no methods to manually adjust it.

[jmc1590]

Just to be sure... With the head cold, the valves (both intake and exhaust) should be adjusted to 0.25mm (or 0.010 in.) - from the Bentley

And if you adjusted them to 0.025 in. they would not be too tight. They would be too loose.

[vr2jetta]

I checked them the old school way, I inserted a screwdriver into the spark plug wire and held it against the valve cover bolt, it arched. By terminals I mean spark plug wire ends, I checked 2 of them.

Yes, there is fuel pooling in the intake boot just before the throttle body, I'm lost on that one too.

The vacuum line going from the intake to the FPR is kinda tight, but with a little effort it went on, I'm just worried the FPR may not get enough vacuum due to the small lines. I just worry because this is my first bmw and all cars are picky about different things and wanted to rule this out.

The wires running across the timing belt cover are still ok, but I couldnt figure out how it snapped in. I am sure that the cover went there, there were indentations on it that matched the location of the clips in the timing cover, I just couldnt figure out how it snapped. Maybe something is broke that I dont know about? This is a prime example of why I hate finishing someone elses project.

I figured the timing was adjusted by the computer but I needed to ask to be sure.

I smelled the fuel and it did not smell bad, all though I'm sure the car sat for at least 3 months. Double checked all my connections, they look good, and did more research on the valve lash and I adjusted it properly. I just read .010 inches on one thread and .25mm on another. That was me just getting excited about hopefully finding the problem.

[SpecM]

Yes, there is fuel pooling in the intake boot just before the throttle body, I'm lost on that one too.

waaaa?

The vacuum line going from the intake to the FPR is kinda tight, but with a little effort it went on, I'm just worried the FPR may not get enough vacuum due to the small lines. I just worry because this is my first bmw and all cars are picky about different things and wanted to rule this out.

don't worry about that too much

I figured the timing was adjusted by the computer but I needed to ask to be sure.

it is

I just read .010 inches on one thread and .25mm on another. That was me just getting excited about hopefully finding the problem.

really the same... (1/10in = .254mm)

[vr2jetta]

OK, So I got it running........again. I pulled the AFM out and cleaned the air temp sensor and removed the filter due to the fact it smelled fuel soaked. It runs much better than last night but still does not want to idle. Can I adjust the idle manually?

[vr2jetta]

So from the time it took me to write the last post and go back outside the car was very difficult to re-start. While running the check engine was on and the "check" light in the cluster was on also. Could these problems be coming from the TPS? Any other sensors that could cause a difficult start? Where is the diagnostic port so I can check the codes? I am assuming I can run a jumper and count the blinks to get trouble codes. Anybody know what terminals to jump to retrieve codes? I am going to search for info on this but figured I would ask ahead of time.

[jmc1590]

No jumper needed. This here's a German luxury car. Turn the key on and rapidly depress the gas pedal 5 times. Then watch your check engine light tell it's tale.

Also search for CEL. That should give you plenty of info to work from.

[vr2jetta]

Yea, I called my brother and he pulled out his code book and gave me the run down, 5 times for 3 and 5 series cars and 7 for 7 series. It threw a 1223, coolant temp sensor, but I figure that is because it has no coolant in it yet. I am going to try to drive it down the street and get the crank pulley impacted on and hopefully haulin' ass down the street will help make it run better, if not I am sure it will be fun!

[wagonizzle]

Coolant temp sensor is about $20. It will flood the motor if the sensor is bad. Grab a new one before you put coolant in and you can avoid making a mess. This problem got me 2 days after I bought by e30; I was so pissed. Then I began to learn how to work on it :)

[vr2jetta]

I got an extra thermostat housing with the coolant temp sensor when I bought it so maybe I'll swap it out to see what happens. I got it down the street and the crank bolt torqued so I came home and it is completely assembled now, other than a few splash guards underneath. I think the gas may be bad too. It will start, not want to idle, but I can drive it around the yard for about a minute then it dies. A bit of cranking and it starts up again. I'll probably make a few trips to the gas station and put some fresh in too.

[vr2jetta]

Just to be sure, the coolant temp sensor is the blue one right, not the brown one?

[vr2jetta]

BTW, I still have fuel pooling in to intake boot and the throttle body is gas soaked too.