Starting issues

[jmc1590]

Before you run out and throw more parts at the car, do a quick check. Swap the two temp sensor leads on the thermostat. One is the Coolant temp sender for the ECU (two contacts within the housing) and should have the blue (black) connector. The other is the temp sender for the gauge (single contact within the housing) with the brown connector. It is quite easy to plug them in backwards if you were putting everything together for the first time. If you had them backwards, the very next time you start the engine, the CEL should go out.

As far as the brake lining light, there are two sensors on the car. One on the Driver's front, and the other on the passenger rear. (Could be completely backwards here.) The sensors mount in the pads and close the circuit when they make contact with the rotor. It is not uncommon for the sensor leads to become freyed and short against other areas of the chasis. This will also trip the warning lamp. If your pads are good, check the wiring for the sensor. Odds are that's all that has happened.

[vr2jetta]

Well, I all ready ran out and bought a new temp sensor and installed it. Well see tomorrow if the light goes out, but it didnt go out tonight when I started it up after putting it in. As far as the plugs go, I could only assume, and call me a dumbass for assuming anything, but I could only assume the blue plug went to the blue sensor and the brown plug went to the brown sensor. I did look into the plugs themselves and noticed 2 leads in each plug, but only one lead in the brown sensor. My temp gauge "seems" to be working fine, it slowly rises as I drive the car, but never gets past halfway, a little shy of halfway to be exact. I do have a new fan clutch on it but I dont think the electric fan is working. When putting it back in I noticed it sticks in one spot, it doesnt turn on when I push the a/c switch, even though the a/c doesnt work, and I even tried to run a jumper from the thermoswitch and nothing. Is it possible to jump the fan from the thermoswitch plug to see if it works? When I jumped it I believe I heard a relay click from the panel under the hood but cant be sure if it was a relay or some sort of switch elsewhere.

[vr2jetta]

One more thing, while under the car I did notice a frayed wire rubbing against the tire but I thought it was an abs wire, so I will have to check that too.

[jlevie]

It sounds like your temp gauge is working normally, which means that the two sensors are correctly connected

[vr2jetta]

So is it possible to run the fan by jumping the plug at the thermoswitch? I used my multimeter to find positive but jumping to either of the other leads did not run the fan.

[bcrdukes]

Bump. Did this issue ever get resolved? If so, what did you do to rectify the problem? I seem to have the same issue.

[vr2jetta]

Bump. Did this issue ever get resolved? If so, what did you do to rectify the problem? I seem to have the same issue.

Yes, I did. It originally was a bad FPR, but was still a bear to start. I am pretty sure it was intake leaks after that. I had gone through the lines again and found the one going from the bottom of the throttle body to the canister check valve was bad too. I think that was the main reason, after the bad FPR. I am positive my FPR was bad though, I had fuel coming out of the vacuum port. Good luck!

[bcrdukes]

Canister check valve = charcoal canister?

[vr2jetta]

Yes, the line goes from the bottom of the TB to the valve, then to the canister. The valve has an electrical plug too.

[romeomike]

Is the brake lining light like the CEL, it will go out when it is fixed? I only ask because the brakes seen fine, a little surface rust but other than that they look ok.

Yes.

There are two sensors (on the left front and right rear wheels) wired in series. When either wire in either sensor is worn down or cut, the brake lining light will illuminate. Because of the vulnerable position of the sensor wiring, the light will often illuminate long before the pads need to be changed.

[vr2jetta]

Yes.

There are two sensors (on the left front and right rear wheels) wired in series. When either wire in either sensor is worn down or cut, the brake lining light will illuminate. Because of the vulnerable position of the sensor wiring, the light will often illuminate long before the pads need to be changed.

Thank you sir! After a closer inspection of the brakes they seem fine. It does look like someone cheesed out on the pads and got some without the sensors in it. I think I will just splice the wires together to keep the light off. I mean, if you dont know you need brakes, you must be oblivious.

[bcrdukes]

Yes, the line goes from the bottom of the TB to the valve, then to the canister. The valve has an electrical plug too.

What did you notice in that area? Was it wet with fuel or something? I notice that area is a little wet, possibly oil/gunk.

[vr2jetta]

What did you notice in that area? Was it wet with fuel or something? I notice that area is a little wet, possibly oil/gunk.

I noticed a super dry rotted vacuum line that needed to be replaced. It looked solid and in one piece, but cracked throughout. I pulled it and blew through it and it leaked everywhere, so I changed it. The area was pretty dry though. No oil or moisture.

[bcrdukes]

Did you replace part #20 (that goes into the throttle body) where 19 is the plug?

[vr2jetta]

Yes, that would be the one.