Well here's the skinny Got an 88 325 courtesy of ubernasty drove the car all the way home (60 miles) with no problems. I changed the timing belt, idler pully, water pump and gasket, oil and filter, all the belts and hoses, brake fluid, coolant, fuel filter and a new tank of gas. But when I drive it it randomly cuts off sometimes. It doesn't stutter or jerk it just smooth cuts off and I coast to a stop. As soon as Im stopped it starts right back up and drives like nothing happened. Does anyone know what could be causing this?
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wow, thats never happened to me when i drove it... which was a decent amount, about 35 miles every time i took it to school about 20 times.
my 85 325e has been doing the same thing, but only when its really hot out. it did it a couple times last summer on 100 degrees + days. it did it today again. its a tricky problem to diagnose, and i'm looking into it to find out myself right now.
i thought you had a different motor for it anyway?
i'll be following this thread as i am experiencing the same bs.
car drives great any other time, but when its really hot out it just cuts off and stalls out. then i'll stop and restart fine, but as soon as i start giving it throttle it falls on its face again. did it earlier today, let it sit for 15 mins, and it started right up and made it back home about 2 miles. also i drove it all night w/o any problems...
anyone know what this could be because i'm stumped???
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This rather sounds like an electrical problem that is taking power to the DME or coil away. One check would be to see if the voltage at the coil, DME power inputs and DME start input are within a tenth of a volt of system voltage as measured at the power block in the engine bay. If one has more voltage drop than that there may be a poor connection in that circuit.The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL
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^^ would that only happen when its really hot out though but run perfectly fine any other times at night or mild- cold days?
seems like that may make the wiring super hot in the engine bay, making them softer and more flexible which could make the connections more susceptible to becomes loose. but that doesn't really seem what's going on. the car just stalls out under acceleration, pull over for a few minutes... starts right back up, drives fine for a minute or two then does the same thing. (the longer i let it sit, the longer it will go before cutting out again)
-thanks for the help btw
nick
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostNow that's a better description of the problem than in your original post. Based on the latest post I'd add the fuel pump and/or relay to list of suspects.
i'm about to offer a paypal reward to whoever can provide correct diagnosis to this. :DLast edited by ubernasty; 05-24-2009, 06:00 PM.
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Having the same problem, Seems my fuel cuts out, except I don't have to pull over I just tun the key off and back on and it "push starts its self" in 5th.. It does it on Hotter more Humid days I have noticed. Hasn't left me stranded yet, but (knock on wood) I'd like to get the problem sorted out. The fuel pump is new as are the pulse sensors which went out months ago. Timing Belt, water pump, Tune up all in the last 3 months.
I'm going to try the fuel pump relay first, Then I am lost after that.
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nth-ing the electrical problem diagnosis. Next hot day backprobe power to the DME and/or signal from ignition control circuits (crank pos sensor, flywheel sensor, cam pos sensor, distributor gear sensor, whatever an M20 has) and see if any drop off suddenly when the problem repeats. I'd bet money on ignition control, but thats just because I've seen it happen before, albeit on a different vehicle. After eliminating those possibilities I'd backprobe the fuel pump after the relay or swap out DMEs.
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