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car wont rev past 2k

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    car wont rev past 2k

    The wife was driving the 90 325i last week and she said the car started bucking and going no where. She limped it home and I got in and drove it and it seemed fine. We got in it today and went to drive to Orlando and it started to do it again. I filled the tank with gas before it happened to her, and yesterday I filled it up so we wouldnt have to do it this morning. Seems to have done it both times with a full tank of gas. The CEL is on but only throws a coolant temp sensor code. I replaced the coolant temp sensor (the blue one) and the light has not gone out. I have searched and found similar problems but noone ha sposted the solution. I am going to try to check the wires to the sensor now to see if they are rubbed raw. If I drive it and stomp the gas it will give the car fuel until it hits 2k. Any ideas?

    #2
    check the injector/CTS harness, its under the intake manifold near the fuel return line. Yours may be nice and corroded.
    1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

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      #3
      +1 same problem!

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        #4
        Originally posted by SpecM View Post
        check the injector/CTS harness, its under the intake manifold near the fuel return line. Yours may be nice and corroded.

        Originally posted by D_ALPINE_M View Post

        That was it!! I cleaned it and started the car, it idles smooth, CEL is off!! Off to Orlando, Well see how it takes the 7 hour drive. It was NICE and corroded!!

        Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!

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          #5
          Originally posted by D_ALPINE_M View Post

          I read that thread and there was no solution, but Thanks again!!

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            #6
            Originally posted by vr2jetta View Post
            That was it!! I cleaned it and started the car, it idles smooth, CEL is off!! Off to Orlando, Well see how it takes the 7 hour drive. It was NICE and corroded!!

            Thanks guys!!!!!!!!!!!!
            damn am I good or what?

            go buy some dielectric grease and smear some inside the connection, it will help prevent that in the future.
            1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

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              #7
              Sweet an hour later and good to go aye, I will have to check mines this afternoon also.

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                #8
                Well...... it fixed the problem, sort of. The CEL went off and the car ran great for about 20 miles, started acting up again so had to turn around and head home at 45 MPH. The CEL was going on and off, running like crap, blah blah blah. I am pretty sure the connectors are loose, and not getting a good enough connection causing intermittent problems, the plug slides in and out VERY easily. I ended up taking the jetta to Orlando, when I get back I will try to tighten up the connections or just cut the plug and rewire a new one in.

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                  #9
                  So is it necessary to dis-connect the battery to clear codes? I pulled the plug again and wedged a push-pin into the female connections to tighten the connection, and it ran fine all day. The wife gets in this morning and it starts acting up right away for her. The light comes on..... All day yesterday the light was off and it ran fine but for utter curiosity I did a stomp test anyway and it gave me a Coolant Temp Sensor code, even when the light was off. I am starting to get very aggravated. Could this be a possible defective ECU, or DME, or whatever BMW calls it? Is there a way I can test it?

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                    #10
                    Ive seen a few threads in the classifieds listing DME's and ECU's, are they the same thing or are they 2 seperate parts?

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                      #11
                      Well, I dis-connected the battery for about 40 minutes and re-connected it and it is still giving me the same problem, wont rev past 2k. It sounds like it is backfiring and goes up past it for a brief second then the same thing. I tried to stomp test it and it is difficult to do. It has been particular about giving me codes since Ive had it. I have to turn the key on and stomp it 3-4 times before it starts the diagnostic blinks, and now since I reconnected the battery, Ive tried it about 10 times and it wont start the blinks. Any ideas?

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                        #12
                        Just to be sure, the stomp test requires 5 rapid presses on the pedal. If you stop at 4 it won't run.

                        And yes, the DME and ECU are the same thing. (Digital Motor Electronics and Engine Control Unit.) Either way, it's the Motronic 1.3 unit on a 325i. There are a few good write ups out on the web, this one I found rather informative ... http://www.opel-scan.ru/files/DME_1.1_1.3.pdf

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by jmc1590 View Post
                          Just to be sure, the stomp test requires 5 rapid presses on the pedal. If you stop at 4 it won't run.

                          And yes, the DME and ECU are the same thing. (Digital Motor Electronics and Engine Control Unit.) Either way, it's the Motronic 1.3 unit on a 325i. There are a few good write ups out on the web, this one I found rather informative ... http://www.opel-scan.ru/files/DME_1.1_1.3.pdf

                          Wow, I'll see if I can get some tests ran from that. At least to make sure I have voltage and ground at the correct places.

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                            #14
                            Have you checked out your cats to see if they get plugged up when it gets hot. I have heard that it could be the cats causing the issue. I have yet to check mines.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by D_ALPINE_M View Post
                              Have you checked out your cats to see if they get plugged up when it gets hot. I have heard that it could be the cats causing the issue. I have yet to check mines.

                              i think thats what wrong with my car my cats are hella old and need to be deleted hey look like the stock cats from 84.hahah

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