Hey all. Im 16 and just got my e30 about a week and a half ago. I already love the car more than my 240sx, which is going in as my project car. Anyway, the car is an 87 325e, and it runs alright, besides a slight hesitation under full throttle. it will pull then let off, then pull and let off, until i shift, and it will continue. I was checking all vacuum lines and then i happened to reach around the intake boot and there is a tear all most all the way through a flex section! Its open too, when the boots on, so about 3 in of boot is open to the atmosphere. So i take some duct tape, and figured that will work till i can get a new one, and the car wont stay idling. Itll start and idle once and die. i can get it to stay on if i give it gas. I tried adjusting the idle and that didnt work. We tried to fix it to how it was so i can go to work, and i have all day tomorrow to work on it. I assume the car was "tuned" for this problem, now how do i go about fixing this? The filter looks fine. Im still kind of new to these cars so im not 100% on everything, so maybe i didnt adjust the idle right. Any ideas? Thanks a ton.
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I just helped a buddy fix this same/similar problem on his eta. Turned out it was a mixture of two problems. One, intake boot was ripped; and two, the ecu was faulty.
First thing I would do is replace the intake boot with a new one. Once you replace that, then tackle the idle issue. A non-idling car is most likely the icv (idle control valve).
don't use duct tape to seal up a tear. If anything get some electrical tape and wrap the hell out of it snuggly.
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If it's the ICV, you should be able to diagnose it by either unplugging it (it should default to fully open) or by removing it entirely. If it idles without the ICV, but the revs oscillate, that probably means the idle control system is not working right.
With my first e, the ICV was shot, and I just replaced it with a manual gate valve (like on a hose). I had to manually re-adjust it when the weather changed, but it worked and it only cost me $5.
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