Removing a M20

[e30this]

OK, I tried my best at this but I was having some camera issues after I go so far so the photos kinda ended with removing and unhooking everything under the hood.
But I figure since I was removing the motor it would be a good time to take photos and kinda help out people who have never done this stuff before.
So here it goes.

Let the car run in the park position if you have an automatic or let it run in the N position if you have 5 speed while you pull fuse 11 to empty all fuel from the system. Make sure you have your E brake on if you have a 5 speed. When the car shuts off turn your key to the off position.
Go to your trunk and unhook your battery. You will need a 13mm wrench. Unhook the (-) side of the battery first then continue to the (+) side.




Once they are unhooked pull them off and push them to the side. This is what you should have.




Then go to your glove box to unhook your ECU.




Open it up and here is the ECU plug. You will want to pull this silver clip back and unhook the ECU.






Now go out to the engine bay and unhook all of the power wires from the distribution block on the firewall. You will need a 10mm wrench.




Then unhook the ground wire from the strut tower. Also a 10mm.




Now pull the plug for the ECU through the firewall.




Next you can unhook the coil. pull the plug wire and boot off the top and you will see two wires. You will need a 8mm socket and a 10mm socket.




Now go to the driver side of the car and unhook the MAF.




Then take a flat head screw driver and loosen the clamp that holds the boot onto the MAF and take it out. You will need a 10mm wrench to loosen the two bolts on the side of the air box.






Now its time to unhook the rad. You will need a bucket to catch your coolant. We have a drian in our floor that goes to a holding tank so we didnt need one.
First take the hose off the bottom of the rad on the driver side. you will need a flat head screwdriver.




Then unhook the hose on the passenger side.




While your over there unhook the coolant sensor on the side of the rad.




Now unhook the top hose.




Now its time to take the radiator bracket off. You will need a 10mm wrench.




Now pull your radiator out and put it to the side so you wont poke any holes in it.




Now go back over to the driver side and unhook your throttle cable.
You will need a 10mm.




Then pull the throttle back and unhook your cable and pull it out.




Now its time to unhook the c101 plug. This is located next to the fuse box and it just untwist.




Now you can get down in and unhook your hoses for your heater core. You will need a flat head for this also.




Now you can unhook the vac hoses from the brake booster to the TB. These just slide out with a little wiggle.




Now its time to unhook your fuel lines. First one up is the one on the FPR. Be careful when you do this so it doesnt get in your eyes.




Now do the one on the fuel rail, be very carful on this on since it will have more pressure in it then the first one.




Now unhook your plug and hose from your evap can. This is located under the throttle body.




Now unhook the ground straps from the oil pan to the frame. You will need a 13mm for this.





Thats it for now, I have a parts car coming this weekend so whatever I missed here I will take photos of and update this thread with that info.

Thanks for looking.

[!kid]

snap-on ! nice i am more of a matco guy myself

[e30this]

snap-on ! nice i am more of a matco guy myself

Matco went out of business in our area years ago.
We have Snap-on or MAC. We also have a company called Grainger. They sell westward brand tools. Only use them if we really have to.

[Rocla]

Go to your trunk and unhook your battery. You will need a 13mm wrench.







Now do the one on the fuel rail, be very carful on this on since it will have more pressure in it then the first one.

My comments:

1.
Allways take the negative battery cable first, in picture you are touching postive wire with metal tool and have negative still attached. A metal tool accidentaly between postive terminal and body creates a massive shortcircuit, which can set your car on fire or cause severe burn to person holding the tool.

2. Before swap don't just turn the engine off, but let it idle and take fuse #11 out and wait untill motor stalls, after this you don't have any pressure in fuel system.

Carry on.

[george graves]

Allways take the negative battery cable first, in picture you are touching postive wire with metal tool and have negative still attached. A metal tool accidentaly between postive terminal and body creates a massive shortcircuit, which can set your car on fire or cause severe burn to person holding the tool.

Or if you are wearing a wedding ring and hit the body work with your ring, it will turn your ring white hot. Then you get to choose to try and pull the hot ring off with the other hand, burning it in the process - Or just let it sit on your finger as it burns your flesh away.

[e30this]

^^^ I wasnt thinking, I will add that.. Thanks..

[Rocla]

Or if you are wearing a wedding ring .

Or a wristwatch.

[EricT]

Or if you are wearing a wedding ring and hit the body work with your ring, it will turn your ring white hot. Then you get to choose to try and pull the hot ring off with the other hand, burning it in the process - Or just let it sit on your finger as it burns your flesh away.

This is why I typically wrap my wedding band and that part of my finger its on with some electrical tape....makes it less likely to get hung up on stuff in the tight spots too......

[E30stan]

I like the step by step pictures, fun to read, keep going!

[Poopie]

thanks for doing this. Its gonna be a huge help for when I swap in my b25 motor in my 325e