What size torx socket for headbolts

[danalyse]

My water pump fan clutch job turned into a timing belt job as well as we did not know the age of the belt and I was three quarters of the way there. Could not trust PO POS claims because the water pump and fan clutch were shot and he claimed belt had been replaced 5K ago. Perhaps he was just a cheap bastard. Bought a kit with tensioner for $30.00. Stupid me forgot to line up marks before I took off the old belt. Could not figure away short of pulling the head to solve this problem. Car was blowing lots of white smoke so I made the plunge and am removing the head as this was probably in store in any event. Got everything off but need the Torx socket size so I can buy one tomorrow. Any special tips regarding re-installation of the head. I believe you initially torque them to what spec done in sequence. Then with a torque angle angle gauge you sequence them incrementally a certain number of degrees. Is this correct and what are the values. Any other helpful tips regarding the entire re-assembly will be appreciated.

[RangerGress]

Buy a set of Torx sockets, don't screw around with buying just one.

If you have new OEM style head bolts, torque them to 22ft lbs, then 90deg 90deg. If you are attempting to reuse your head bolts do 25ftlbs then 40 then 55ftlbs. Reusing head bolts isn't generally recommended, but as long as you use the 55ftlb protocol, it should be ok.

There are lots of tips on installing the head over at e30tech.com. Spend an evening printing out some of those threads.

If you have two people you can put your manifolds on to your head before installing the head. You just have to be careful when you next put the head on.

Chase the head bolt holes then clean them out.

Get the block and head mating surfaces nice and clean, but don't be so aggressive that you score them.

Put head and crank at TDC when you put head on.

The pipe between intake manifold and block is a bugger. Shove it into the block and it should stay for about 60secs while you get the intake manifold in place. Then it will shoot out and hit the ceiling.

Once you get head on, run crank thru 2 revs and check timing marks.

After tightening the head down, redo your valve adjustment.

There's several applicable DIY's on my website. Drill down to the Track Tales page and look near the bottom.

[danalyse]

I think I am on the right track. All that you suggested was what I planned to do. When you say 90 degrees twice what you mean is to, in essence, turn the bolts a total of half a turn but do it in two steps just as you should probably do when torquing things otherwise...in increments. I hope I see a bad head gasket after I take the head off. Thanks much for the advice.

[e30s50dan]

Ranger...whats your times around Roebling Road

[Devil Inc]

Buy a set of Torx sockets, don't screw around with buying just one.

Very true cause if you ever need to pull the transmission, it has the E-Torx head bolts also.

[RangerGress]

I think I am on the right track. All that you suggested was what I planned to do. When you say 90 degrees twice what you mean is to, in essence, turn the bolts a total of half a turn but do it in two steps just as you should probably do when torquing things otherwise...in increments. I hope I see a bad head gasket after I take the head off. Thanks much for the advice.

Yes. Half turn total in 2 stages.

You won't necessarily see the bad headgasket. If you do a leakdown test prior, you will learn more then you will looking at your HG.

[RangerGress]

Ranger...whats your times around Roebling Road

SpecE30 track record at RR is a low 1:24. 8 guys have run 1:24's at Roebling. I've never gone sub 1:25. Even getting consistant 1:25's is very hard. I'm consistant 1:26's with occasional 1:25's.

In order to get a mid 1:25 I have to do turn's 1, 3 and 9 so fast as to stand my hair straight on end in terror.