Revving issue, won't rev past 5100rmp. 325is.
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Which cowl? So far the dash/engine compartment/door VINS all match.
No need to be sorry, neither of the motors is all that great, this one is just lesser great.
If anything that just means that it's likely to have less than than 230K miles as the body has, making it more likely to be reliable as it sits now until I find a suitable replacement.
Where should I look for the engine stamp on the block?Leave a comment:
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Looks like someone replaced the engine, wiring and DME with one from an ETA at some point. Compare the VIN's on the stickers with the VIN on the front cowl and see if it matches. Sorry bro.Leave a comment:
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Moar pics.
IS Trim


IS tach

IS/I stamps, note the overlayed stamp over an old one.




ECU

Unconnected plugs, either left over after the swap or half assed previous owner(s)

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It's a year model thing due to the water pump/cooling system. The 87 325i had the tank on the passenger side. That's definately an ETA engine. I'd bet it's a 87 325iS car (with 7K tach, 3.73LSD) and someone replaced the engine with an ETA engine including wiring? Who knows. A lot can happen to a car in 20 years.Eta has the coolant resevoir on the passenger side, with a coolant hose going from the resevoir directly to the block, I has the res. on the driver's side and has a hose going to the radiator. I's look different to the somewhat trained eye. I own two i's and one eta, and know for sure beyond reasonable doubt that you have an eta. You posted pics of three i motors in your last post. One major quick reference is to note the more robust looking, and somewhat smoother curve in the i intake manifold.Leave a comment:
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I would rather have the piece of mind that I got the chassis that I had in mind when I paid for it, rather than feel jipped.
Motors change with a hoist, chassis change with a for sale sign.Leave a comment:
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This is getting better.
Ran the vin and I get a 325I instead of Is, but I didn't see an option for Is either.
Last 7 vin is 2325160
The door sticker says 325i but it's layed over an older sticker the sticker next to it says Is.
I'll link the pics when I get home, can't link photobucket from iPhone.Leave a comment:
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Run the VIN through realoem.com. That will tell you if the car was built as an i/is or e/esLeave a comment:
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Yeah I've learned these things after reading the post and doing a quick basic search. I've posted pictures of I's as a reference to see exactly what I'm "supposed" to have.Eta has the coolant resevoir on the passenger side, with a coolant hose going from the resevoir directly to the block, I has the res. on the driver's side and has a hose going to the radiator. I's look different to the somewhat trained eye. I own two i's and one eta, and know for sure beyond reasonable doubt that you have an eta. You posted pics of three i motors in your last post. One major quick reference is to note the more robust looking, and somewhat smoother curve in the i intake manifold.
What I'm trying to figure out now is exactly who made this Frankenstien and exactly what parts were put on it.
Is it an IS chassis with an Eta motor, or is it an Eta chassis with IS parts. I'll be pissed off if it's the latter.Leave a comment:
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Eta has the coolant resevoir on the passenger side, with a coolant hose going from the resevoir directly to the block, I has the res. on the driver's side and has a hose going to the radiator. I's look different to the somewhat trained eye. I own two i's and one eta, and know for sure beyond reasonable doubt that you have an eta. You posted pics of three i motors in your last post. One major quick reference is to note the more robust looking, and somewhat smoother curve in the i intake manifold.Leave a comment:
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So next state of business is to check the pin outlet on the ECU and the bottom end engine stamp?
Where is the engine stamp on these things for the block?
Ecu is passenger side floorboard like most imports?Leave a comment:

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