Trying to summarize Super eta (S-eta) stroker build info.

[TrentW]

No, the intake.

[phenryiv1]

No, the intake.

In that case, I probably have it, since I have the complete intake assembly.

Thanks.

[phenryiv1]

So I have a couple of questions to pose to the masses, as I get closer to actually doing this...

1. Since I have the Motronic harness in place, and since the block won't be leaving the vehicle, what are the minimum harness junctions that need to be disconnected to get the swap done?

I don't want to just go disconnecting things at random.

2. Asuming I am not plannign to start the car after beginning this, should I start by pulling the seta intake parts and replacing them from the front to the back, and END with the head and IM, or should I start with the head and the IM and work my way forward?

3. In what order should things (such as injectors be installed in the fuel rail, IM to head, head to block, etc.)? Not like "start with the front injector and work back..." but more like the order of the major components.

I mean, should all of the injectors be installed in the rail, then the rail inserted in the IM, then the whole thing be bolted to the head, then installed, or should I install the head, then the IM, then the injectors, then the rail...?

I just don't know my order of operations for that process.

[phenryiv1]

Bumping in hopes of responses to post above...I am getting down to decision time on doing this.

[VacMan]

Just read this entire thread, and man are there a bunch of conflicting posts made by people with little or no knowledge of what you're actually trying to do. I think once you get it wrapped up you should make a new thread compiling all of your findings into one spot without the interference.

Regarding your questions, I think you're overengineering this in your mind. The premise is simple: pull off everything from the head and up from the old car, then replace with everything from your donor stuff you bought. Install the ECU, fill fluids, drive.

Start by pulling all the SETA stuff. As you pull it, mark any wiring you disconnect and/or take pics as you go. Strip down to the head, then pull it. This means disconnecting the intake as an assembly, exhaust manifolds, coolant lines, and fuel lines.

Reassemble in reverse, starting with the head (timing belt/tensioner/waterpump), then valve cover, intake assembly from your donor, exhaust. Then do the coolant hoses, then fuel, then wiring. Or choose a different order, it doesn't matter. Tie up any loose ends, then go drive.

SETA installs are the easiest to do, and the reason why we sourced a SETA sedan for our budget trackmobile. You already have 90% of what you need on the car, and only need to swap the parts listed by Flash in his initial post.

Good luck,

Tim

[phenryiv1]

Just read this entire thread, and man are there a bunch of conflicting posts made by people with little or no knowledge of what you're actually trying to do.

SETA installs are the easiest to do, and the reason why we sourced a SETA sedan for our budget trackmobile. You already have 90% of what you need on the car, and only need to swap the parts listed by Flash in his initial post.

I think once you get it wrapped up you should make a new thread compiling all of your findings into one spot without the interference.

Yeah, the whole point of this was to be short and sweet and to avoid becoming the goliath that other eta motor build threads have become, and in one respect, this has gotten out of hand. In another respect, however, it has been successful- this one has managed to stay on the topic of being ONLY the Seta build.

Regarding your questions, I think you're overengineering this in your mind. The premise is simple: pull off everything from the head and up from the old car, then replace with everything from your donor stuff you bought. Install the ECU, fill fluids, drive.

I feel like that is totally the case.

Start by pulling all the SETA stuff. As you pull it, mark any wiring you disconnect and/or take pics as you go. Strip down to the head, then pull it. This means disconnecting the intake as an assembly, exhaust manifolds, coolant lines, and fuel lines.

Reassemble in reverse, starting with the head (timing belt/tensioner/waterpump), then valve cover, intake assembly from your donor, exhaust. Then do the coolant hoses, then fuel, then wiring. Or choose a different order, it doesn't matter. Tie up any loose ends, then go drive.

Good summary...thanks. I get wrapped around the axle on order of operations. It comes from my "real" job.

Good luck,

Tim

Thanks.

[twothrees]

May I suggest you purchase a couple of books? The Bentley Manual and Wayne Dempsey"s " 101 Performance Mods for your E30/E36". Look on www.pelicanparts.com for both. Pour over these books until you get it right in your head, then jump in.

FWIW, I am finishing my SETA project today: everything installed just need to fill tranny and coolant. I started with "I" motor and replaced the block with the SETA.

[phenryiv1]

May I suggest you purchase a couple of books? The Bentley Manual and Wayne Dempsey"s " 101 Performance Mods for your E30/E36". Look on www.pelicanparts.com for both. Pour over these books until you get it right in your head, then jump in. .

I actually have both. I have read "101" a couple of times, and have the bentley for technical support.

FWIW, I am finishing my SETA project today: everything installed just need to fill tranny and coolant. I started with "I" motor and replaced the block with the SETA.

Hopefully, I will be able to make a similar post soon.

[bataangpinoy]

fyi the 153 dme has two boards in it, held together with plastic rivets. the 173 and 380 are single board units.

i did the head swap on my seta powered 325is(blew the b25) with the head you sent me.
pulls great, but gives me and idle issue when cold.
just make sure that you use new vac hoses or prepare to suffer trying to chase out leaks and isle issues.

[phenryiv1]

fyi the 153 dme has two boards in it, held together with plastic rivets. the 173 and 380 are single board units.

i did the head swap on my seta powered 325is(blew the b25) with the head you sent me.
pulls great, but gives me and idle issue when cold.
just make sure that you use new vac hoses or prepare to suffer trying to chase out leaks and isle issues.

I am glad that the head worked for you.

There were discussions elsewhere regarding the 153 versus the 173/380, and as you pointed out, the software is the same, btu the single- versus double-boards make it more difficult to find a chip for the 153.

Just a consideration for people considering the build.

[bataangpinoy]

i have a chip for a 153, but i dont want to install it.

[twothrees]

My super eta budget stroker is done and is running very well. Seat of the pants says I picked up low and mid-range over my "I". I did get the flywheel lightened and do recommend that modification. It ended up at 13-14 lbs.

I was stressing the last couple of days because it was running like shit; until I found out that #6 injector was un-plugged and #1 intake's eccentric was really loose, allowing the eccentric/rocker to bang on the valve stem. That was causing the knocking that was freaking me out. So much for adjusting the valves prior to installing the engine.

OP, I hope yours turns out just as well.

DD

[supra89t]

If you have a super eta, this is all you need period....

325i 173 ECU
325i inner valve springs
325i cam
325i intake manifold
325i throttle body
325i throttle position switch
325i intake bellows
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator
325i vacuum line from brake booster, to bellows, and to throttle body side



thats it, nothing more, nothing less.
If your head is only drilled for 4 journals its like 20 bucks at a machine shop to get the additional holes drilled. You need a timing belt and tensioner, head gasket set, head bolt set, and water pump. Thats it.

Im still surprised that with all this information available there is still so much misinformation.

THIS is a definitive list for the super eta, its tried and true, other parts eliminated via realoem, you already have 325i injectors, wiring harness, pump etc...

OK, stupid question from the newb...I have an '88 seta and:

325i 173 ECU
325i valve springs & rockers
325i cam
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator

Do I *need* the i manifold, throttle body and TPS? Will the 173 ecu read the seta TPS properly? I guess the real question is are the i intake parts mandatory to make the car run or upgrades to the restrictive seta parts? My budget on this is super-tight so I need to re-use anything I can and upgrade later as funds come available.

[phenryiv1]

OK, stupid question from the newb...I have an '88 seta and:

325i 173 ECU
325i valve springs & rockers
325i cam
325i air flow meter
325i 3.0 fuel pressure regulator

Do I *need* the i manifold, throttle body and TPS? Will the 173 ecu read the seta TPS properly? I guess the real question is are the i intake parts mandatory to make the car run or upgrades to the restrictive seta parts? My budget on this is super-tight so I need to re-use anything I can and upgrade later as funds come available.

You really need the i IM and TB to get enough air in to increase power.

[supra89t]

So the car will run and drive with the seta parts but performance will not be at 100% at the top end of the rev range due to the restriction posed by the seta parts, right?