for the love of god help!!!

[MysterE30]

allllllllllllllright...

so ive had my 86es since july and have only drove it for about a month. sooo frustrated its not even funny.

heres the deal:

she starts...but have to give constant gas to keep it running or it dies out by itself. before i put new injectors, intake boot, and hose (from throttle body to valve cover) it ran better when it was cold, the got worse and worse the warmer the engine got. on occasion it randomly backfires through the intake..??#*%$

when giving it gas it hesitates/delays hardcore. like i'll give it gas and hold for a second or two the revs up. i have no idea what to do anymore im out of ideas.

things ive replaced:
-injectors
-intake boot
-hose from throttle body to valve cover
-ecu
-MAF
-fuel filter
-spark plugs
-O2 sensor and wire
-exhaust from headers back
-TIMING IS CORRECT
-did a flow test and i am getting enough gas. so the pump is working correctly

im probably forgetting something, but if anyone has any ideas at all please please PLEASE throw anything up in the air. im going insane and i need this car to get to work damnit lol. any advice is greatly appreciated. thanks guys

[PeaveyBassist]

Are the plug wires on the distributor in the correct locations? If they arent, each cylinder could spark at the wrong time causing an occasional backfire into the intake. Also, check the throttle position sensor adjustment. It is located directly on the bottom of the throttle body. Does the tach work properly as well?

EDIT: In before Jlevie!

[MysterE30]

haha wow you did get good timing.

wires are all in correct places. i triple checked that. and thats also what i forgot. new cap and rotor also installed.

tach does NOT work...

what should i do with the TPS???

[Fidhle007]

Temp sensor.

Also check your ICV.


And BTW, you have an AFM, not a MAF.

[Fidhle007]

tach does NOT work...

Based on a thread I saw recently you should make sure your wiring harness hasn't decided to eat itself for lunch. A small short in the system can cause major damage and create all sorts of weird symptoms.

And BUY A BENTLEY!

[MysterE30]

i meant AFM...typing too fast plus im pissed equals occasional typeo haha.

have a bentley...used it used it used it...its beyond even the bentley..never thought i'd say it. someone also suggested a temp sensor and ICV...but how do i check if they're working or not?

[PeaveyBassist]

You can take out the ICV and clean in with carb cleaner or something like that. The temp sensor is pretty cheap to just replace, however, there are 2 of them on the thermostat. One for the gauge and one for the ecu. Temp sensor is usually about $20 or so. If the car ran fine, but did not idle, that would point to the ICV, but if it runs like shit and sometimes backfires into the intake, then its not solely the ICV. Clean it anyways though for good measure. If the tach does not work, maybe look at the crank position sensor and the trigger wheel on the front of the engine. Check all the teeth on it and make sure its fine. For the TPS...there are 2 bolts on the bottom of the throttle body. The switch sees idle, middle, and full throttle. No percentage, it is a switch NOT a sensor. You want it to switch from idle to "middle" as SOON as the throttle moves. You might be able to feel it click when you move the throttle, you might have to take it off and use a volt meter to adjust it right.

With the car running, spray carb cleaner down by the intake gaskets, the oil drain tube under it (in the intake AND at the bottom in the block), and around the brake booster hoses. That will help you check for a vacuum leak. Maybe one of the intake gaskets has exploded. Thats a couple things to check. We will see what other people say.

[Fidhle007]

I'm sure there's a procedure in your Bentley... I do it by plugging in my scan tool and looking at the numbers put out by the sensor and letting the engine run up to temp.

[StereoInstaller1]

CPS feeds ECU, then tach. No signal on tach says either the tach is broken, or you have no signal at ECU.

Plug from CPS WILL fit into plug for cylinder reference sensor. This would be the 2 3 pin plugs near the diagnostic port, side by side.

Car will buck and shake like a dog shitting a peach pit, as the ECU has no real reference from CPS, so has no clue when to make spark.

Check this first, as this is a 30 second fix.

HTH,
Luke

[StereoInstaller1]

OOPS, never mind, the heap of crap is an eta.

Check your damn flywheel sensors