i the same exact issue happend to my car.
same symptoms and everything, didnt think much of it..
its off the road right now because of the snow so im not driving on it.
but i was installing the proper transmission cross-member ( the guy who i got it off of didnt finish the 5spd swap) and i noticed a rubber piece a little bit behind the transmission cross-member that seamed to support the shaft was torn and no supporting shit. and it all started to make sence.
Clunking? on my 87 325is?
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Damn, $800 for a driveshaft? There's some kind of clunking coming from the rear when I shift. Looks like I'll probably need a new driveshaft soon. :(
Has anybody just gotten measurements and had a one piece driveshaft made? I mean hell, there's a place a couple miles from me that does damn good work and it'd probably only be a couple hundred for a new custom built driveshaft.
MattLeave a comment:
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It takes me an hour or three on a lift with all the correct air tools...$75 labor?
Like I said, bring them boys a bottle of something.Leave a comment:
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That is a good deal. It took me four hours with crap for tools to do it in my driveway.Leave a comment:
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$200 for a decent used shaft PLUS diff and tranny service?
SMOKING deal, man.
congrats. Bring those guys a bottle of something.
LukeLeave a comment:
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Just an update. As I've posted yesterday, I just got back from getting my driveshaft replaced. The good news: no more clunking :) I almost forgot how the car drove w/o the clunking but now feels great. The old guibo wasn't too bad but the csb was really messed up and both were supposely replaced just before I got the car only 6 months ago. The u-joint had a lot of play no good at all.
The best news? I got good used driveshaft for $100, only paid the shop $75 to have it replaced and add'l $25 to have both diff & trans oil replaced with Red Line (I bought the oil online separately). So, everything only cost me $200! I think I got a great deal.
BTW, I was originaly going to do the job myself but having seen it done I'm really glad I didn't. I think I still could have done it but not w/o great frustration and spending all day under the car cursing ending up with some kind of body injury. Just being honest that I'm a wrench newbie wimp :)Leave a comment:
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This could be anything in the final drive from the drive shaft back or the rear suspension. You need to get the car up in the air and inspect the drive shaft, half shafts, differential, its mounts and bushing, and the subframe and trailing arm bushings.Leave a comment:
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$818 from the dealer, so yeah grab your ankles
on my 86 the csb was fucking shot, made a clunking noise (my car earned the name : the flapper)
csb usually goes out from bad u-jointsLeave a comment:
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I am gonna skip the whole rebuilt phase of money wasting and buy a brand spanking new BMW part.
Hopefully, BluntTech sells them. If not, I will beat my head against the wall until I hemorrhage nearly to death and buy one from the damn dealer.Leave a comment:
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What Luke said. I'm getting mine replaced with a used one tomorrow so we'll see how long it lasts. If it craps out too soon I'll have to fork up the $400 for a rebuilt one.Leave a comment:
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Yea I'll check tomorrow. And if itsstill tight no movement then what? Plus where do yousuggest buyin a good drive shaft?Leave a comment:
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CSB generally will cause vibration, not clunking.
U joints are far more likely. Ask me how I know....
Most likely the rear ujoint is shit. Simply jack up the car and jerk the driveshaft in all directions...you will see what is wrong. Do be careful to not shred yor hands on the heatshields...as with all things, don't be a fucking retard, OK?
The ujoints are not replaceable or repairable, except for some shops who claim to be able to, but generally, they get shitty reveiws.
Driveshafts NW is a good example of this. Oh yeah, the retards at your local auto parts shop will sell you a u-joint. You cannot change it out, and they will give you a load of shit trying to return a $35 part you cannot use...again, ask me how I know...
Then, when you call to find out how much the driveshaft costs to replace, you will cry.
I found a decent used one from an 86 eta, as any Getrag 260 based car will have the same driveshaft. After that one took a shit in 2,000 miles, I was FAR pickier in choosing the next one. So far, I have 35,000 miles on that one and it is pretty shitty now and will fail in the next 3,000 miles or so.
Enough instructions? Get under your damn car and LOOK!
LukeLeave a comment:

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