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Intake side freeze plugs, how much of a pain in the ass?

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    Intake side freeze plugs, how much of a pain in the ass?

    I know how to change freeze plugs, done many of them over the years, but never on an M20. How much of a pain in the ass are they normally? Looks like I can get to the offender by merely pulling the airbox and working around the heater lines (offender is #3 on the intake side, right by the oil drain tube) The aft ones look like a certifiable motherfucker though, behind the starter. Is it generally considered easier to pull the intake, or is it a waste of time and gaskets to do this? Any tips that anyone wants to pass on? (other than shoot myself?)
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    #2
    If I found it necessary to change the freeze plugs, I'd be sorely tempted to pull the engine. If I could not do that I'd remove the intake and starter. You need clear access to be able to drive the plug in square. The starter is a pain to get out, but the job gets easier if you remove the transmission cross brace, allowing the rear of the transmission to drop, disconnect the motor mounts and lift the front of the engine about 4".
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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      #3
      thats what I was afraid of....... FML
      I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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        #4
        It sounds worse that it is. The first time it may take you two days, but with practice you can have the intake and starter out in four hours or so.
        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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          #5
          whew, i kinda lucked out here. it turned out being the heater hose. it was dripping into the core plug making it appear faulty. just for kicks though, this particular plug wouldnt be too bad to do with the right tools by just pulling the airbox. I was able to clean the gunge out of it effectively without pulling anything else. the rear three would be a bastard though.



          EDIT:

          looks like I was right the first time. I went out and checked again, and the cavity was full of coolant again. It WAS leaking. It is now out and ready for replacement in the morning. A LONG drift (or extension with the correct socket) will clear the fender, and give enough room to punch the plug out. Keep in mind you may have to pull the starter for the rear three (im gonna lazy out on these for now, just no time for a non leaking plug) but it beats pulling the intake and all. Total time to remove the plug is about 45 minutes.
          Last edited by scottinAZ; 01-03-2010, 09:31 PM. Reason: added information
          I saved 15% on my Bimmer parts by switching to ...



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