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cold start issue... help please!

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    cold start issue... help please!

    I'm very new here and to e30's in general. I recently purchased a 91 325i and got a steal on the car. My thoughts are to daily drive it but i'm currently having a sold starting issue and I will be the first to admit I know nothing about these cars.

    When cold the car wants to crank over for quite awhile before starting up... the car always starts but it just seems to want to crank over too long IMO.

    I have replaced the plugs, cap, rotor etc, just for a tune up but i'm not sure what could be causing this cranking issue... the car ran fine when I bought it and this issue has just popped up in the past week or so. When the car is warmed up it starts up just fine.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks ahead :)

    #2
    check the Cold start valve?
    1991 E30 M3 Brilliant/black - S54B32/5M
    1990 E30 318iT RHD Lagunagrun/tan - S52B32Turbo/5M
    2011 E82 1M VO/blk/6M
    1991 E31 850i red/grey/6M
    1997 F355 spider red/tan/6M

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      #3
      I literally know nothing about these cars... what and where is this cold start valve?

      Comment


        #4
        I believe it is under the throttle body on the M20

        the CSV injects more fuel into the cold engine to get it to start quicker
        1991 E30 M3 Brilliant/black - S54B32/5M
        1990 E30 318iT RHD Lagunagrun/tan - S52B32Turbo/5M
        2011 E82 1M VO/blk/6M
        1991 E31 850i red/grey/6M
        1997 F355 spider red/tan/6M

        Comment


          #5
          91 dont have cold start valve. its only for old model eta.

          Change your coolant temp sensor and fuel filter and see what happens.
          JMP Autowerkz
          7349 Canby Ave.
          Reseda, CA 91335
          818.457.4967
          www.jmpauto.com

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            #6
            The most common cause of this problem is intake leaks. The only sure way of finding all intake leaks is to have a smoke test run on the intake. There's no point in considering other possible causes until you can prove that there are no intake leaks.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks guys I will look into these and see if any help. I did check the intake for leaks but did not do a smoke test so that might be next.

              I did read about the coolant temp sensors causing issues as well so for like $20 that's definately worth a shot.

              Comment


                #8
                You can find a coolant temp sensor for $7. A smoke test is a little overkill for an OBD I car and pretty simple emissions.There are only like 5 hoses you have to check. Change your fuel filter, clean your ICV with some throttle body cleaner. Check for visible vacuum leaks. The leak is going to have to be big to create issues. I have a tear in my boot and have no issues.

                Could also be the FPR. Check your fuel pressure. If you don't have the tool maybe see if someone has a working FPR near you that you can try.

                Good luck!

                Comment


                  #9
                  [QUOTEA smoke test is a little overkill for an OBD I car and pretty simple emissions.There are only like 5 hoses you have to check.][/QUOTE]
                  I beg to differ. Any fuel injection system is extremely sensitive to intake leaks and they are the most common cause of starting or idle problems. And there are a few more places for an intake leak that just the hoses. The complete list of possible causes of an intake leak is:

                  Intake boot
                  Throttle body gasket
                  ICV hoses & connections
                  Brake booster, hoses, and connections
                  Crank case breather hose
                  Evaporative control hoses, valve, and expansion tank
                  Fuel pressure regulator & hose
                  Injector seals
                  Valve cover gaskets & bungs
                  Oil filler cap
                  Dip stick o-rings
                  Oil return tube o-rings
                  The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                  Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                  Comment


                    #10
                    [QUOTEA smoke test is a little overkill for an OBD I car and pretty simple emissions.There are only like 5 hoses you have to check.][/QUOTE]
                    I beg to differ. Any fuel injection system is extremely sensitive to intake leaks and they are the most common cause of starting or idle problems. And there are a few more places for an intake leak that just the hoses. The complete list of possible causes of an intake leak is:

                    Intake boot
                    Throttle body gasket
                    ICV hoses & connections
                    Brake booster, hoses, and connections
                    Crank case breather hose
                    Evaporative control hoses, valve, and expansion tank
                    Fuel pressure regulator & hose
                    Injector seals
                    Valve cover gaskets & bungs
                    Oil filler cap
                    Dip stick o-rings
                    Oil return tube o-rings
                    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Just wanted to say thanks for all the info here guys it is much appreciated. I managed to fix the issue... I'n not entirely sure what it ended up being but I changed the coolant temp sensor, installed new fuel filter, new distributor cap and rotor, and some new plugs and now she runs like a champ again :) My guess is fuel filter as it honestly looked like it was the original!!!

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