Cold Start Engine Noise After Timing Belt / Water Pump Change

[wasabinuki]

I changed the timing belt, pulley, water pump, v-belts, and dist cap. The noise does go away after a few minutes and the car doesn't overheat/leak coolant. What is weird is that the noise wasn't there right after the change, but a week or so after. Any help would be great:

Here is the video I shot:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PMyZTdqHQxk

[jlevie]

Did you install a new tensioner when you changed the belt?

If you remove the the v-belts is the noise still present?

[jlevie]

Did you install a new tensioner when you changed the belt?

If you remove the the v-belts is the noise still present?

[wasabinuki]

Did you install a new tensioner when you changed the belt?

If you remove the the v-belts is the noise still present?

Yes I replaced almost every part I removed.

- Timing Belt
- Tensioner
- Spring
- V-Belts
- Distributor Cap
- Water Pump
- Seals & Covers

The thing that is weird is that it only does it when the car has sat overnight. Once it warms up, the noise will not come back unit the car has sat for 12+ hours. When I started it up today, I tapped on the water pump and it seemed to help a little. The sound is almost as if the pump is pumping air instead of coolant. Is that a possibility?

I really don't think it is the belts/pulleys making the noise because the sound stops after a few minutes. If it was the belts, I don't think the noise would stop.

[jlevie]

Air in the cooling system might be a possibility. Try the following to fully bleed the system:

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

If the noise is still present after that, use an automotive stethoscope to pinpoint the source of the noise.