Best way to pull motor?

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  • Evilsmith
    Advanced Member
    • Mar 2009
    • 171

    #1

    Best way to pull motor?

    I searched for about 15 minutes thinking that someone else would have had this problem but I couldnt find anythign specifically about this. If I missed it, I apologize in advance.

    Ive never pulled an M20 so I decided to try to follow the Bentley manual as close as possible. I managed to common-sense it all the way to the step about the starter, and I about gave up. It took hours to get the starter off due to location. However, in the midst of that, I was told that instead of separating the motor from trans, I can just disconnect the driveshaft, disconnect the trans mount, hook the cherry picker up to the front engine lift point, and pull the engine and trans out vertically (Like a trophy fish). Still wanting to stick to the Bentley, I decided to get the starter out and go to the next step. Problem is, THERE ARE NO STEPS! Bentley acts as if positive thoughts is going to separate the motor from the trans, and all I can see is some poorly placed torx bolts on the bellhousing....I dont even want to know what uncomfortable contorting it takes to get the them. My questions are:

    1. I completely trust that I can pull the trans with the motor, but im having a hard time seeing how I wouldnt rip the front end to shreds and drag the trans across my garage by just using the front engine lift point. Does it come out ok with just hooking to the front?

    2. What steps is the Bentley missing if I just wanted to remove the motor from the trans and pull the motor individually?

    Vert build - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=167264
  • george graves
    I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
    • Oct 2003
    • 19986

    #2
    Pull it with the tranny is fine. There is a lift point on the back of the block by that starter, up higher on the block. Don't forget the reverse light switch and the clutch slave, shift linkage, drive shaft. Jack your car in the front as high as it can go to give the tranny room to swing down below.
    Originally posted by Matt-B
    hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

    Comment

    • evil_twin
      R3VLimited
      • Nov 2007
      • 2965

      #3
      Originally posted by george graves
      Pull it with the tranny is fine. There is a lift point on the back of the block by that starter, up higher on the block. Don't forget the reverse light switch and the clutch slave, shift linkage, drive shaft. Jack your car in the front as high as it can go to give the tranny room to swing down below.
      I didn't have to jack my car up when I pulled the motor and trans and put the m52 and trans in.

      But GG is right, just take your time with it and don't rush.
      I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.

      Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com

      Delta Auto Care
      2875-C Towerview Road
      Herndon, VA
      703.435.1375

      My Feedback Thread: Evil_Twin

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      • george graves
        I waste 90% of my day here and all I got was this stupid title
        • Oct 2003
        • 19986

        #4
        ^oh sorry. I was thinking of M30. They end up being about a foot(?) longer.
        Originally posted by Matt-B
        hey does anyone know anyone who gets upset and makes electronics?

        Comment

        • calz4m
          Member
          • Aug 2009
          • 96

          #5
          Pull it out connected to the trans. Hook a shackle to the rear engine lifting point back near the starter. Connect your chain to that. In the front use the obvious lift point. As someone said above, disconnect the shifter linkage, backup light wire(s), clutch slave, driveshaft. Once the shop crane is supporting a lot of the weight, disconnect the trans mount crossmember and then you can begin to pull it out slowly. Keep the car as low as possible when doing this. I have trouble clearing the rad support with the front of the motor if the car is not on the ground. Just take it slow. Best case is to have two other helpers...one at the least. DO NOT attempt this yourself. Take it slow and work safe.

          Comment

          • jlevie
            R3V OG
            • Nov 2006
            • 13530

            #6
            When pulling the motor and transmission as a unit, it is a huge help to have an engine load leveler.
            Last edited by jlevie; 03-11-2010, 07:21 AM.
            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

            Comment

            • calz4m
              Member
              • Aug 2009
              • 96

              #7
              Originally posted by jlevie
              When pulling the motor and transmission as a unit, it is a hugef help to have an engine load leveler.
              Agreed. I didn't mention it, but I don't see how you could do it without one.

              Comment

              • evil_twin
                R3VLimited
                • Nov 2007
                • 2965

                #8
                Originally posted by calz4m
                Agreed. I didn't mention it, but I don't see how you could do it without one.
                I did it WITHOUT using one alone one night. It's really not as bad as everyone says.
                I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.

                Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com

                Delta Auto Care
                2875-C Towerview Road
                Herndon, VA
                703.435.1375

                My Feedback Thread: Evil_Twin

                Comment

                • SiGmA_X
                  Wrencher
                  • Mar 2006
                  • 287

                  #9
                  Either pull the motor and tranny using a load leveler, or disconnect the tranny and pull the motor on its own. I can do a motor/tranny combo myself in about 2hr or less, its really simple. The other option is dropping it out the bottom, but you need a vehicle hoist.
                  :wgaf:

                  PNW BMW Crew ///
                  '93 325iS
                  '99 528iT

                  Comment

                  • cobraken
                    Mod Crazy
                    • Oct 2004
                    • 674

                    #10
                    I have to agree the folks on this thread are all right. I just did it for the first time last weekend. Have the front end as high as possiblea and swing it out as once pice. the leveler is a must.
                    Randall Racing and Engineering
                    Acworth, Georgia, 30101
                    http://www.facebook.com/RandallRacingandEngineering

                    Comment

                    • jeffw
                      E30 Enthusiast
                      • Sep 2008
                      • 1087

                      #11
                      just pull it with the tranny on it. ive done it multiple times its fine. one thing that will make it a little smoother coming out i have learned is take the ac condenser out before you pull the motor

                      Comment

                      • Evilsmith
                        Advanced Member
                        • Mar 2009
                        • 171

                        #12
                        I have literally everything off the engine (AC, PS, wire harness, engine mount bolts), im just trying to figure out how pulling the engine and trans vertical with just the front lift point would work.

                        Im trying to find a load leveler in a store, but im coming up empty handed. I really would hate to have to put this off another day while I wait on a load leveler and chains.

                        Vert build - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=167264

                        Comment

                        • SiGmA_X
                          Wrencher
                          • Mar 2006
                          • 287

                          #13
                          Harbor Freight, ~$40. Do it.
                          :wgaf:

                          PNW BMW Crew ///
                          '93 325iS
                          '99 528iT

                          Comment

                          • Evilsmith
                            Advanced Member
                            • Mar 2009
                            • 171

                            #14
                            Originally posted by SiGmA_X
                            Harbor Freight, ~$40. Do it.

                            Yea I was looking at their website, all I can find is this:

                            http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96524

                            Thats not what I want, im calling them now.

                            Vert build - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=167264

                            Comment

                            • NC325iC
                              R3V OG
                              • Mar 2004
                              • 6565

                              #15
                              i always end up ruining AC condensers pulling the engine, i can never get the angle right (thats with the trans)

                              if you unhook the trans, which takes an extra 10-30 minutes depending on how good you are, pulling the engine alone is a snap and only takes a minute or two. thus the savings of about half an hour of struggling to get the angle right to not hit anything in the bay (the upper part of the core support on the harmonic balacer)
                              Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

                              Originally posted by TimKninja
                              Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.

                              Comment

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