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    bleeding help

    Hello guys! I know how to bleed the cooling system but my problem is that I can't open the bleed hole. About 2 weeks ago I replaced the radiator but I could not for the life of me unscrew the dang thing. My brother and friend tried and they couldn't get it, it is stripped pretty badly but somehow my mechanic can always get it undone although he can't help me because he doesn't get off of work until 5 and I have work at 2 today and tomorrow. Problem s, I am driving to la on wed. Which is about 150 miles away and I don't want to drive the car is, I am driving to la on wed. Which is about 150 miles away and I don't want to drive the car that far without getting the air out. It has not overheated since the radiator replacement that far without getting the air out. It has not overheated since the radiator replacement, infact on the freeway the needle will stay at the 1/4 but when stopped it goes up to the 1/2 but it has never gone past. The car has been fine for the past two weeks but before the radiator replacement, the needle used to be at the 1/4 no matter what. So my question is, is there a way to bleed the system other than the bleed screw? Thanks. nfact on the freeway the needle will stay at the 1/4 but when stopped it goes up to the 1/2 but it has never gone past. The car has been fine for the past two weeks but before the radiator replacement, the needle used to be at the 1/4 no matter what. So my question is, is radiator replacement, the needle used to be at the 1/4 no matter what. So my question is, is there a way to bleed the system other than the bleed screw? Thanks
    1992 325i Convertible

    #2
    There is another way to bleed the system. Following normal bleed procedure (see below) remove the small hose that attaches to the top of the radiator and use it as the bleed point. Once the block has been purged of air and the thermostat is open it will help to blow into the expansion tank (with the engine off) until coolant comes out of the top of the radiator.

    1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
    the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
    on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

    2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
    the bleed.

    3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
    temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
    in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
    up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
    warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
    up the coolant as necessary.

    4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
    several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
    this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
    indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
    repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

    5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
    bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
    few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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