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Changing Timing Belt - can someone confirm these other items?

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    Changing Timing Belt - can someone confirm these other items?

    So I've already searched around and just wanted to ask here for confirmation.

    I'm looking to get my timing belt changed at my mechanic's in the next week or so. I know it requires a fair amount of labour to get to it so have been trying to figure out what other things should be done as long as I'll be paying for the labour anyways.

    Background: Car is a 1990 325i with 100k miles on it, and has been sitting for almost 2 years now.

    I'm not the most mechanically inclined so some of these things I'm not sure how important they are and if they fall into the "really should do" category or the "nice to do" category.

    Anyways here's what I've come up with:

    - Timing belt & Tensioner
    - Water Pump
    - Thermostat
    - Distributor cap + rotor + spark plugs + wires

    Those seem to be the big things from what I can gather. Am I missing anything?

    Some of the "nice to do" items people seem to mention include:

    - Front cam/crank/oil shaft seals
    - Major Cooling Hoses
    - Accessory Belts

    Am I missing anything? What's the bare minimum that should be done here?

    Thanks!
    Greg


    #2
    The bare minimum would be timing belt & tensioner, water pump, and thermostat. If original, plug wires, distributor rotor, cap, and plugs would be a good idea. You should get the valves adjusted while the car in in the shop. Nice to do would be all of the cooling system hoses and if the shop has the equipment, a smoke test of the intake and repairs as indicated would be good.

    The cam shaft seal needs to be replaced if it is leaking, as would the front main seal. But if dry, don't bother.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by jlevie View Post
      The bare minimum would be timing belt & tensioner, water pump, and thermostat. If original, plug wires, distributor rotor, cap, and plugs would be a good idea. You should get the valves adjusted while the car in in the shop. Nice to do would be all of the cooling system hoses and if the shop has the equipment, a smoke test of the intake and repairs as indicated would be good.

      The cam shaft seal needs to be replaced if it is leaking, as would the front main seal. But if dry, don't bother.
      Yep, Replace the camshaft seals no matter what though. Also replace the half moons under the valve cover when he does that gasket too.
      "Socialism is a philosophy of failure, the creed of ignorance, and the gospel of envy, its inherent virtue is the equal sharing of misery." - Winston Churchill

      "People sleep peacefully in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf" -George Orwell

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by sir otto View Post
        Yep, Replace the camshaft seals no matter what though. Also replace the half moons under the valve cover when he does that gasket too.
        Half moons = rocker arm shaft plugs (4 in all)

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
          The cam shaft seal needs to be replaced if it is leaking, as would the front main seal. But if dry, don't bother.
          Do not agree. $300+ in labor for the belt, and the guy will throw in the Cam/Crank seals while he is in there. It is cheap insurance to not worry about a leak down the line, and you said it's at for two years.

          Originally posted by sir otto View Post
          Yep, Replace the camshaft seals no matter what though. Also replace the half moons under the valve cover when he does that gasket too.

          I agree. Whenever you are opening up an engine, you should replace any maintenance seals/gaskets while you are there.

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