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Need to replace headgasket on 90 325ic. help

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    Need to replace headgasket on 90 325ic. help

    I've seen several posts but cant seem to find them now. Here's my problem after letting the car sit for nearly ten years I now want to restore to 10/10 shape myself. Taking it to shops takes all the fun out of it in my humble opinion.

    I replaced the plugs, fuel, fuel fump and fuel filter and the car started right up however within minutes it ran hot. I noticed the coolant level had dropped but thought it was just working its way through the system since I had replaced that as well. I toped off the reservoir and within minutes it dissappeared. I searched all over and no external leaks. I was told to check the exhaust but no evidence of coolant being burned off either. The oil dipstick does look a little watered down however it doesnt have that milky composure everyone says it should have. I was told it's most likely the head gasket so I'm ready to give it a shot. Any suggestions, links, or help of any type is greatly appreciated. The car's exterior and interior are in good shape and I'm ready to make them like new but before I start throwing money on the esthetic I want to make sure that I have a nice reliable ride.

    #2
    Whoa, 10 years. Id prolly drain the oil and the water and put in fresh. Did you check the front floor boards for the water? Compression test?

    COTM

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      #3
      The dropping coolant level and running hot are consistent with air in the cooling system. And there could be other cooling system problems, like a stuck thermostat.

      If the car has sat for 10 years, the first action should be to replace all the fluids, timing belt & tensioner, water pump, and thermostat. Then fill the cooing system and properly bleed it (see below). While bleeding, check the fan clutch for proper operation and replace it if indicated.

      I wouldn't pull the head without evidence of a problem.

      1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
      the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
      on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

      2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
      the bleed.

      3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
      temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
      in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
      up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
      warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
      up the coolant as necessary.

      4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
      several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
      this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
      indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
      repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

      5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
      bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
      few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment


        #4
        N2MYE30 - I pulled the carpet and made sure no internal leaks. Carpet was wet but it was due to the top deteriorating over time and the car sitting outside. I've garaged the car since pulling the carpet and everything's bone dry. Waiting on a top which should come in the next week or so. I had initially changed the oil and coolant but now that I think they're co-mingling I'll do it once again just to make sure it hasn't reduced the viscosity to the point where it's hurting the engine. I considered a compression check but all the people I've spoken to have said that the check might come up okay despite a bad headgasket or worse yet warping.

        jlevie - I truly am hoping its air in the coolant system. I didnt know better so I dumped all the coolant and replaced with fresh coolant without bleeding anything. I thought the air would just work its way out. I'll go ahead now and properly bleed the system and cross my fingers. The car has 200k miles on the original engine and if I recall correctly I changed the timing belt and waterpump right before I parked it in the driveway. I've been reading all the posts and links on replacing the tb and wp... Plan is to replace them this weekend.

        Comment


          #5
          Well, it looks like a proper coolent bleeding will do the trick. GL.

          COTM

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