overheating thread #121029312. But seriously help.

[lolcantturn]

Before I bought my E30 I test drove it. The hose to the top of the radiator (the smaller of the bunch) wasn't clamped on so it was steaming out coolant. I thought "Yeah man Imma buy this car!" So I did. I think all the coolant steamed out. The radiator is new and so is the water pump and the hoses. Anyway, I get a mile away from his house, bring it up to redline, then i see smoke coming out of my hood. Car is overheating. I get to the side of the road, clamp my hoses, double up on clamps, and filled it with water. Fill half way with car off. Then turn on the car and fill it up 3/4th of the way with the car on. Temperature drops DRAMATICALLY. "Aw yeah" says my face. 40 seconds later it gradually starts to climb again. The fuck? Leave the car there, 40 mins from my house, gonna get it towed tomorrow.

Diagnosis:
Car is not leaking coolant from underneath.
Only steams when its overheating, so the clamps are tight.
Fan doesn't spin...I didn't look but the fan belt might be absent. However, I don't think the fan would have made a real big difference?

What do?

[jlevie]

If the engine only overheats when idling or being driven in stop and go traffic, the fan clutch or thermostat are prime suspects. But if it overheats at 35mp or more the fan clutch isn't the cause.

If the fan belt is missing, the water pump isn't running and the engine will overheat.

That said, air in the cooling system (from a failure to fully bleed or a head gasket leak) will cause overheating.If the temp gauge has gotten into the red the chances of a head gasket problem are quite high.

[lolcantturn]

If the engine only overheats when idling or being driven in stop and go traffic, the fan clutch or thermostat are prime suspects. But if it overheats at 35mp or more the fan clutch isn't the cause.

If the fan belt is missing, the water pump isn't running and the engine will overheat.

That said, air in the cooling system (from a failure to fully bleed or a head gasket leak) will cause overheating.If the temp gauge has gotten into the red the chances of a head gasket problem are quite high.

That pretty much answered everything I was going to ask and say. Thanks.

[lolcantturn]

Ok so I've taken your helpful advice and I still have a problem.
How can I tell if my waterpump is working? The previous owner installed a new one, but it might not be working right. Get this.
I was driving down the Belt Parkway and it was a little bit more than 3/4ths of the way towards the red on the temp gauge. Then a hose blew going to my thermostat housing I believe and the temp gauge dropped dramatically! Although there was coolant all over the side of my car, my temp dropped to the marker past the blue on the temperature gauge. Whaaa? I also deleted my termostat for now.
I still need to bleed the coolant system, I know that for sure, but I'm wondering how would I know the pump is working?
BTW: The E30 is extremely fun. I can only have 30 seconds of fun before it starts overheating though :)

[lolcantturn]

Bump.

[lolcantturn]

Also the coolant and engine oil light is on near the sunroof switch..not sure what that means. oil is filled pretty well since I did it yesterday, and the coolant tank is just about to overflow ... ?

[JLegleiter]

Don't worry about the check panel. Those sensors will go bad after awhile, just keep an eye on the levels on your own. Which you should be doing anyway.

In post #4, the reason your temp gauge dropped so dramatically was because you not longer had any coolant left for it to take the temperature of. You spewed that shit onto the highway.

You need to do the following things:
1) STOP driving the car.
2) Put in a proper thermostat.
3) You said the fan isn't spinning. I assume you checked the belts.(?) Whats the status of the fan clutch?
4) BLEED THE SYSTEM
5) Do you have receipts of the repairs/parts for the repairs from the previous.

[payney8]

this^^

[lolcantturn]

Don't worry about the check panel. Those sensors will go bad after awhile, just keep an eye on the levels on your own. Which you should be doing anyway.

In post #4, the reason your temp gauge dropped so dramatically was because you not longer had any coolant left for it to take the temperature of. You spewed that shit onto the highway.

You need to do the following things:
1) STOP driving the car.
2) Put in a proper thermostat.
3) You said the fan isn't spinning. I assume you checked the belts.(?) Whats the status of the fan clutch?
4) BLEED THE SYSTEM
5) Do you have receipts of the repairs/parts for the repairs from the previous.

1) Okay I guess I'll have to..but its so enjoyable!
2) Will do this week
3) It's spinning now
4) Ok this is the problem I have, I bled the system according to various instructions on r3v. Coolant with bubbles spew out of the thermostat bleed screw, and then it stops and only vapor comes out.Additionally, after I turn the engine off, I can hear water exiting the coolant tank and going through the hoses (in a gulp-gulp-gulp sound) but I don't see any leaks. wut.
5) Nope...the water pump is pretty shiny compared to the rest of my dirty ass engine so I can only assume.

I thought my headgasket was blown... but I still have great power left (Which I suppose means good compression) and theres no chocolate in my coolant tank.

[lolcantturn]

Bump. I know I'm becoming a bit of a peeve by bumping so often, but I just want to drive my E30 that has yet to see 100yards from me.
I guess this afternoon I'm going to take out the hoses and see what's up.

[jlevie]

I don't know what procedure you used to bleed the cooling system. But the procedure below is a good substitute for a vacuum fill system, which is the best way. From everything you've described I suspect a leaking head gasket that is pumping air into the cooling system. A DIY test for that is to fully bleed the system, drive the car for a bit (but don't let it overheat), and re-bleed. Release of a significant amount of air then or on a subsequent bleed is evidence of a head gasket leak (or a cracked head).

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

[lolcantturn]

I don't know what procedure you used to bleed the cooling system. But the procedure below is a good substitute for a vacuum fill system, which is the best way. From everything you've described I suspect a leaking head gasket that is pumping air into the cooling system. A DIY test for that is to fully bleed the system, drive the car for a bit (but don't let it overheat), and re-bleed. Release of a significant amount of air then or on a subsequent bleed is evidence of a head gasket leak (or a cracked head).

1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
the bleed.

3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
up the coolant as necessary.

4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

Yes I followed your procedure, which seemed to be working well until vapors came out and I was clueless from there on.
Gah....Im really hoping it's not my headgasket. I'm a novice and I wouldn't even know where to begin.. is it simple?
After I drove it around without it overheating, I opened up the bleed screw and only vapors came out....steamy hot coolant?

[jlevie]

That is sounding more and more like a head gasket. Enough air is being pumped into the system once the engine is at temp to result in only air coming out.

Fixing this isn't terribly difficult, but some experience is highly desireable. If you take you time and follow the procedures in the Bentley and the various on-line write-ups you should be able to manage. But it would be best to have some experienced help. Your other choice would be to have a pro do the work.

Once the head is off, it must visit a shop to be checked for warp (and probably re-surfaced) and cracks.

[lolcantturn]

That is sounding more and more like a head gasket. Enough air is being pumped into the system once the engine is at temp to result in only air coming out.

Fixing this isn't terribly difficult, but some experience is highly desireable. If you take you time and follow the procedures in the Bentley and the various on-line write-ups you should be able to manage. But it would be best to have some experienced help. Your other choice would be to have a pro do the work.

Once the head is off, it must visit a shop to be checked for warp (and probably re-surfaced) and cracks.

Aw man that is the worst news I can hear.......
How much would it cost to do this without a mechanic?
I have gasket maker thing that comes in a tube, should I use that?

[lolcantturn]

Any more things i should look for symptom wise for a blown headgasket? I don't want to go yanking the head off for nothing. Thanks