As I stated, the head will have to be checked by a pro for warp and cracks. And it will probably have to be surfaced to make it flat. You will need a head gasket set (head, intake, exhaust, valve cover, thermostat housing, and coolant pipe gaskets and oil return tube seals), new head bolts as they are one-time use fasteners, and a timing belt kit. Depending on the condition of the head other work may be indicated. I'd at least do the valves and seals while the head is off.
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overheating thread #121029312. But seriously help.
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostAs I stated, the head will have to be checked by a pro for warp and cracks. And it will probably have to be surfaced to make it flat. You will need a head gasket set (head, intake, exhaust, valve cover, thermostat housing, and coolant pipe gaskets and oil return tube seals), new head bolts as they are one-time use fasteners, and a timing belt kit. Depending on the condition of the head other work may be indicated. I'd at least do the valves and seals while the head is off.Originally posted by TSI♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫OEM+
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It actually is not too challenging of a headgasket to do, being SOHC. If you follow the procedures, you will be fine. E30s are very simple machines.
That said, the last shred of hope I can offer is a completely whooped pressure cap/other air leak in the system. Worth a check if nothing else. Unfortunately though, such a rapid overheat really suggests its time to pull the head.-Dave
2003 Lincoln Towncar | 1992 BMW 325iC | 1968 Cadillac Deville
Need some help figuring out the ETM?
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are ALL of the hoses, not just radiator hoses, in good condition?
check that all are in good condition. a tiny crack will not leak but when hot enough will spray coolant and steam.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...67&hg=11&fg=35
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I recently put my e30 back on the road after letting it sit for 10 years. The first thing I did was replace coolant and it would disappear after 5 minutes. I was sure it was the headgasket. Instead someone suggested the waterpump so i changed it and the car still overheated even after properly bleeding. I then noticed the condensor fan not working. I replaced the fuses and jumped the radiator switch so that it runs high speed at all times with ignition key on. The car then would not even warm up beyond the blue part of the guage. I replaced the thermostat and now its pegged right in the middle of operating temp. Make sure you exhaust all the possibilities before concluding on the headgasket.
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I put the head back today.
I didn't machine it.
It was in too bad of a condition, so a new head was needed.
Fuck it, im on a budget and i got other problems to fix, so ill use the old one
New gaskets where any previous gasket existed. Torqued to spec.
Start up car.
It's not looking good...white smoke coming out the exhaust heavily, milk in oil still.
Tinkering for about an hour, new thermostat, bleed out coolant.
White smoke still coming out..no signs of overheating though. This is the longest it's been idling since I got it 4 weeks ago..5 minutes.
Drive it around the block, WOT all the way..
White smoke is nonexistant
Temp gauge didn't go past blue.
Leave on idle for 40 minutes
Temp gauge still just a little past blue, like a millimeter.
Leave on idle for an hour.
Doesn't move, still on the blue.
Am I ok with this? Well I guess it's better than being on red.
Fuck yeah.Originally posted by TSI♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫OEM+
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