Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Running when parked, 3 years ago

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Running when parked, 3 years ago

    I have an engine to swap into my iS build, ran when parked. This was three years ago. Before I drop it into my project car what should I replace, other than timing belt/cap rotor/plugs? What should I check?

    The current timing belt is in good visual shape, unknown mileage. Same story for the plugs. I plan to pull the valve cover, oil pan, and replace water pump gasket (already a metal impeller).

    Coolant was nice a bright green, oil dark brown. I'm new to engine work so I'm not entirely sure what should be done, and what I need to do to re-lubricate the engine.

    #2
    just change oil but pull valve cover and cover the head guts in oil,then pull the coil plug so that the car wont start when engine is cranking, crank it for a bit to get the oil in the system. then just start it up and if anything else needs replaced you will fin out so enough but no reason to dump money into something that doesn't need replaced

    Comment


      #3
      For an engine that has sat that long, I'd pull the injectors and have them cleaned and flow tested. I'd change the timing belt, tensioner and unless known to be new the water pump. Once the engine is installed and ready to be started, I'd pull the distributor mount cover and the oil pump gear and use a drill to spin the oil pump until pressure built in the oil system. Then fire up the engine.
      The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
      Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

      Comment


        #4
        +2 on both above..
        But First save you cylinders and rings.. Pull spark plugs and shoot a fare amount of
        WD40 in each cylinder... Let this sit over night without the plus.. Turn over the motor
        with a wrench (by hand) to feel for hangups, If none turn over with key to blow the wd40 and other crap out of cylinders, then Install plugs....!

        Good luck... ;)




        https://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar...re-irs.356333/

        This Forum is built on love, and powered by Sexual Tension!

        When I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.

        Comment


          #5
          While your there, get a new rear main seal and tranny input shaft seal. And a good seal puller. When i did the rear main it was a total bitch.
          Past: 1987 325iS, Bilsteins - HR Sports

          Present: 1999 M3, Koni Yellows - HR Sports - GC Camber Plates - UUC Swaybars - UUC SSK - AFE Intake - Stromung Catback

          2009 Mazdaspeed3, Short Ram Intake - Turbo Inlet Pipe - 2nd cat Delete - Catback - Fuel Pump Internals - Cobb Accessport - Stratified E30 tune - 294/342 - SPC Camber Arms - CPE Rear Motor Mount

          Comment


            #6
            if u will do a timing belt water pump etc... do the coolant flush get the rust out of that radiator too.
            E30 Project in progress......

            Comment


              #7
              Pull the valve cover add oil across the valve train ensure it turns freely like mentioned. Remember oil pressure will be weak for a period of time so turn over with a new strong battery minus plugs and fuel pump relay so it doesn't inject fuel. Then new fuel filter after tank is drained. Coolant and water pump have been mentioned.
              https://www.facebook.com/BentOverRacing

              Comment

              Working...
              X