Simple Question About the TPS

[llll1l1ll]

I was thinking that and it might be that the CPS has indeed given out, as well.

Would a good way to check be to (please don't laugh) pull a spark plug with the wire still attached and give the engine a crank to look for spark? It's the only way I can think of, as I do not have access to any sort of voltimeter or multimeter.

[jlevie]

While not specifically a diagnostic for the CPS, if the engine has spark when cranking the CPS has to be working.

[llll1l1ll]

Tested for spark today, and sure enough I have some spark.

This leads me to believe it must be on the fuel side of things. I'm still getting a 1444 error code. I switched out my good looking fuse 11 for another good looking fuse 11 with no difference. Perhaps one of the fuel pump relays went? I checked (rather, smelled) the spark plugs and the engine bay for any fuel smells but couldn't smell any fuel.

I don't have any serious vacuum leaks. The only other thing I could think of would be swapping the 173 DME for a 153 I have laying around.

[lolcantturn]

I'm on your same boat brotherman.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=195264

except now my car won't even start.

I've concluded that my injectors aren't getting signal. While in the Bentley it says to "feel" the injectors for vibration or clicking, when I'm cranking the engine over I feel none of that. furthermore, when I disconnect the injectors, my engine still fires the same (only 2 or 3 cylinders firing), with no smell of fuel, yet the fuel regulator is pumping fuel.

I dunno, I think we're both suffering from the same problem-- lack of fuel.

[jlevie]

Tested for spark today, and sure enough I have some spark.

This leads me to believe it must be on the fuel side of things. I'm still getting a 1444 error code. I switched out my good looking fuse 11 for another good looking fuse 11 with no difference. Perhaps one of the fuel pump relays went? I checked (rather, smelled) the spark plugs and the engine bay for any fuel smells but couldn't smell any fuel.

I don't have any serious vacuum leaks. The only other thing I could think of would be swapping the 173 DME for a 153 I have laying around.

The proper diagnostics at this point would be to check the rail fuel pressure while cranking the engine, use a noid light to check to see if both banks of the injectors are firing, and to see if each plug fires.

[llll1l1ll]

Ah that's the tough part as I don't have a noid light. Getting around is also a pain as I'm relying solely on Metro and my feet. The nearest car parts store from me is almost three miles.

I was thinking I might just check to see if the pump actually even works. I'm not sure how old it is and I'm pretty sure I could find some wire around Rockville to jump the relay real quick. Then I could disconnect the return line from the FPR and see what comes out.

Or I could just be chancy and order a new relay.

[llll1l1ll]

wtf quote?

[jlevie]

I was thinking I might just check to see if the pump actually even works. I'm not sure how old it is and I'm pretty sure I could find some wire around Rockville to jump the relay real quick. Then I could disconnect the return line from the FPR and see what comes o

That tells you essentially nothing. The FPR could be blown and there's no pressure in the rail or the FPR could be bad and the rail pressure is far higher than it should be. The only meaningful test would be to tee in a pressure gauge at the rail inlet.

Then, the rail pressure could be correct and there is no firing signal to the injectors, which is what a noid light will tell you.

If you have no other transportation, it shouldn't take more than two hours round trip to visit a parts store 3 miles away. But then I'll bet that there are cabs in Rockville.

[llll1l1ll]

Haha I'm just being a pansy. I found an autoparts store with walking distance of the next Metro up. Anyway, I'll go ahead and, if it's not too snowy this weekend, take a look into getting those noid lights.

Before I get them, will I need any extra special wiring for just your average set of noid lights to be purchased at Advance Auto? I'd hate to get the set and then discover they won't plug in or something.

[DaveSmed]

I was gonna say, if your really stuck, you drive an '88. Grab the bulb from a working sidemarker light, bend the legs straight = noid light.

If you get a real set, they will work. The Bosch connectors are shared with a ton of manufacturers.

[llll1l1ll]

Alright, I'm reviving this thread since I got the noid lights.

I hooked them up to the harnesses and they blinked on both banks. SO, I think it has something to do with the fuel system. My landlord mentioned a clogged line perhaps? Maybe my fuel pump is dead? I put a new fuel pump relay in with nothing. I doubt it's my injectors since even if one of them was dead, the car would still run.

[jlevie]

If the noid light blinks when cranking, the DME is firing the injectors. Since you have spark while cranking, the next likely cause of a no start condition will be fuel delivery or intake leaks. A smkke test of the intake will reveal any intake leaks and the suite of fuel system tests in the Bentley will tell if there is a fuel problem.

[llll1l1ll]

Yeah, I'm thinking it's fuel delivery as well. I'm gonna disconnect the return line on the FPR and see if anything happens when I actuate the pump.

[llll1l1ll]

In case anyone was wondering, it turned out to be the fuel pump. She runs like a top now (even after two months of sitting).

Brakes were pretty grimy though.