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M20s are NOT all the same

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    #16
    Can someone clarify this a bit for me...

    An early e30 M20 block doesn't have "holes/threads" that match e34 mounting arms, but an e34 M20 block (and later e30 block) have "holes/threads" for both e30 and e34 arms, correct?

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      #17
      Originally posted by Eecen View Post
      Can someone clarify this a bit for me...

      An early e30 M20 block doesn't have "holes/threads" that match e34 mounting arms, but an e34 M20 block (and later e30 block) have "holes/threads" for both e30 and e34 arms, correct?
      Yes, exactly that.

      Closing SOON!
      "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

      Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

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        #18
        okie dokey

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          #19
          Originally posted by browntown View Post
          That was quick, I was going to offer the bottom end of my m20 for a reasonable cost way ahead of transplant schedule. See what a nice guy I am
          What's with you and offering your bottom end for a low price?
          sigpic
          Turbo Cabrio project: http://eurowerks.org/showthread.php?t=19677

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            #20
            So there's one other difference, dipstick locations. On E30 blocks the dipstick tube goes through the block (see pic below), on E34 blocks it goes through the oil pan and that hole on the clock is plugged.

            Center of picture.

            From underneath



            Now...I am wondering if you can just hammer that "plug" out of the block, it seems like you should be able to right? Has anyone done this before?

            I hammered on it from the "inside" with a brass drift (aka punch) after torching the "outside" and it didn't move...I didn't beat on it very hard as I think the brass was just mushrooming. I sprayed some penetrating oil, which'll sit overnight, then I'm gina use a steel punch in the morning-see if that works.

            Anybody?



            Disclaimer:
            I CAN run the E34 oil pan/dipstick...but I have a steel E21 pan, and new dipstick (why didn't I try this before buying ti...?) which I'd really like to use.
            Last edited by Eecen; 10-15-2011, 07:04 PM.

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              #21
              So either the plug on my block was rusted on very good, or you have to drill it out. I'm thinking it's the latter. *shrug


              But as it turns out the E34 pan sits lower, has better baffling, and will definitely transfer heat better. So what-ever, win-win I guess.

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                #22
                Originally posted by Eecen View Post
                So there's one other difference, dipstick locations. On E30 blocks the dipstick tube goes through the block (see pic below), on E34 blocks it goes through the oil pan and that hole on the clock is plugged.

                Center of picture.

                Now...I am wondering if you can just hammer that "plug" out of the block, it seems like you should be able to right? Has anyone done this before?

                I hammered on it from the "inside" with a brass drift (aka punch) after torching the "outside" and it didn't move...I didn't beat on it very hard as I think the brass was just mushrooming. I sprayed some penetrating oil, which'll sit overnight, then I'm gina use a steel punch in the morning-see if that works.

                Anybody?



                Disclaimer:
                I CAN run the E34 oil pan/dipstick...but I have a steel E21 pan, and new dipstick (why didn't I try this before buying ti...?) which I'd really like to use.
                Check the 3rd post, you are a little late to the party ;) yes you can hammer that out and use the E30 dipstick. It has been done before.
                -Alex

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                  #23
                  Uhhh.....huh. Lol. Fucking face-palm.


                  Disregard my last two posts in this thread please;)

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