start problem

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  • E30MACK
    Wrencher
    • Dec 2009
    • 230

    #1

    start problem

    Im looking to buy this 90' 325i for like $1000, but the car wont start. the guy said it has a rebuilt motor with 30k on it and that he has so far replaced the computer, crank sensor, rotary button?, wiring harness, and coil......said it cranks but wont turn over. any ideas? would it be worth getting with a clean body at that price and just work on it to fix it?
  • jlevie
    R3V OG
    • Nov 2006
    • 13530

    #2
    For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

    Power on DME pins:
    27 Start Input
    18 Un-switched Power input
    37 Power Input from Main Relay

    Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

    Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

    To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
    from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
    controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
    output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

    To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
    pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
    respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
    three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
    injectors is controlled by the main relay.

    The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
    output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
    relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
    is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
    11.

    The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the to wires
    that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
    in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
    main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
    DME.

    Troubleshooting:

    Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

    1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
    DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

    2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560
    ohms. If the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change
    from about 500 to 540-540 when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
    sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

    3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
    pump relay 85.

    Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 0.040"), plug the
    relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
    following checks:

    1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
    86 & 30.

    2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
    18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
    injectors and fuel pump relay.

    3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
    14, 19, 24).

    4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
    pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

    The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
    DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
    necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

    IMPORTANT:

    A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
    you measure across the batter terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
    charged battery.

    A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

    An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

    A good quality auto-ranging Digital Multimeter will make these tests much
    easier.
    The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
    Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

    Comment

    • lolcantturn
      R3V Elite
      • Oct 2010
      • 4588

      #3
      Originally posted by jlevie
      For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

      Power on DME pins:
      27 Start Input
      18 Un-switched Power input
      37 Power Input from Main Relay

      Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

      Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

      To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
      from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
      controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
      output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

      To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
      pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
      respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
      three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
      injectors is controlled by the main relay.

      The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
      output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
      relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
      is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
      11.

      The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the to wires
      that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
      in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
      main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
      DME.

      Troubleshooting:

      Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

      1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
      DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

      2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560
      ohms. If the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change
      from about 500 to 540-540 when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
      sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

      3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
      pump relay 85.

      Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 0.040"), plug the
      relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
      following checks:

      1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
      86 & 30.

      2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
      18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
      injectors and fuel pump relay.

      3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
      14, 19, 24).

      4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
      pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

      The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
      DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
      necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

      IMPORTANT:

      A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
      you measure across the batter terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
      charged battery.

      A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

      An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

      A good quality auto-ranging Digital Multimeter will make these tests much
      easier.

      jlevie> god
      Originally posted by TSI
      ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
      OEM+

      Comment

      • matias88e30
        E30 Enthusiast
        • Dec 2009
        • 1110

        #4
        ^^^ +1
        no more boosted m20, 91 318i...

        Comment

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