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    #16
    I want to know why my car has been very hard to start first thing in the AM, then spews tons of grey smoke when it does sputter and bitch into life...and then starts and runs just fine for the rest of the day.

    isn't grey smoke usually indaction of bad valve seals/guids?

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      #17
      Shouldnt there be a anti drain back valve in the fuel filter? Has that been checked or replaced?

      edit: i know there is one some way to keep the fuel from vaporizing in the lines causing vapor lock..and i think they do it with a anti drain back..keeping it pressurized so it wont vaporize....and from what your describing..thats what it sounds like.
      sigpic

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        #18
        Originally posted by MTechnikII View Post
        I want to know why my car has been very hard to start first thing in the AM, then spews tons of grey smoke when it does sputter and bitch into life...and then starts and runs just fine for the rest of the day.

        isn't grey smoke usually indaction of bad valve seals/guids?
        No, oil burns blue...this is light gray, smells of gas.

        Closing SOON!
        "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

        Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

        Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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          #19
          xwill112x, the nature of the recirculating system eliminates further need to manage fuel evaporation.

          Ich gehöre nicht zur Baader-Meinhof Gruppe

          Originally posted by Top Gear
          Just imagine waking up and remembering you're Mexican.

          Every time you buy a car with DSC/ESC, Jesus kills a baby seal. With a kitten.


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            #20
            Originally posted by StereoInstaller1 View Post
            Little update: Local shop that said $12 each will do a 100% guaranteed full rebuild on them...for $150.

            I have good used sets, but all flowmatched and such would be nice, as in better than new.

            Wonder if it is worth it on single pintle injectors, or should I find another set of small 4 pintle?
            I recently got a set of 6 rebuilt/flow tested 4-pintle injectors on eBay for about $90. The BMW specific sellers generally have 14lb and 19lb sets depending on your preference.
            "If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."

            -Dr. Paul Forrester



            Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???

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              #21
              The set I got from ebay turned out to be the 4 pintle style. They work great, my car fires up immediately now, and cost around $110 with shipping.

              Originally posted by u3b3rg33k View Post
              There's a common misconception that the fuel system retains meaningful pressure after the car is shut off. That is immaterial (there is no pressure reservoir, so the only pressure that can be present is held by the rubber fuel lines themselves). What does matter is that the system can pressurize instantly when the fuel pump is powered. If it has air in it, the air must be purged (via the FPR) before it will operate properly.
              Yep, when I tested my fuel pressure, it would slowly go down to 10lbs after about half an hour. Once I started cranking it *immediately* went up to 40 lbs.

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                #22
                Linkie, please.

                I am just gonna bite the bullet on this set, but I want fresh ones on my S50

                Closing SOON!
                "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by funcrew View Post
                  I recently got a set of 6 rebuilt/flow tested 4-pintle injectors on eBay for about $90. The BMW specific sellers generally have 14lb and 19lb sets depending on your preference.
                  Noob question - any reason to get the 19lbs over the 14lbs or vice-versa? New-to-me car, chasing gremlins, probably be stock for foreseeable future
                  1991 e31 - Black on Black, 5.0L/6 Speed. Sold
                  1990 e30 Cabriolet, 2.5L/auto. Sold
                  1999 e39 Touring, 2.8L/auto. Sold
                  1988 e30 Cabriolet, 2.5L/5 Speed. Going for retro modern convenience driver.

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                    #24
                    Bumping a semi old thread here.
                    Luke, I am having the same problem as you were/are. Did the new injectors end up solving the issue?

                    TIA
                    sigpic
                    Parts Wanted
                    The Never-ending Resto Mod

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by blocke View Post
                      Bumping a semi old thread here.
                      Luke, I am having the same problem as you were/are. Did the new injectors end up solving the issue?

                      TIA
                      No, never fixed it. Gonna be more fun to deal with once I get that thing back on the road...with a working transmission

                      Closing SOON!
                      "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                      Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                      Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                      Comment


                        #26
                        The simple test for leaking injectors causing a flooded, or nearly flooded start is to duplicate the conditions that cause the problem, remove the fuel pump relay and bleed any pressure off the supply side of the rail, remove the plugs, and crank over the engine while monitoring the plug holes. If fuel sprays out or there is a strong smell of fuel the injectors are probably leaking.

                        Alternatively, since they probably need it, you can send the injectors out for cleaning and flow testing. I use RC Engineering and their report will tell if any of the injectors were leaking before cleaning.
                        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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                          #27
                          Originally posted by jlevie View Post
                          The simple test for leaking injectors causing a flooded, or nearly flooded start is to duplicate the conditions that cause the problem, remove the fuel pump relay and bleed any pressure off the supply side of the rail, remove the plugs, and crank over the engine while monitoring the plug holes. If fuel sprays out or there is a strong smell of fuel the injectors are probably leaking.

                          Alternatively, since they probably need it, you can send the injectors out for cleaning and flow testing. I use RC Engineering and their report will tell if any of the injectors were leaking before cleaning.

                          What does RC charge for a set of 6?
                          I'm currently using 17.5 lb green tops, but my miller MAF conversion calls for 19lb. Depending on cost, I may just buy one of the yellow top sets off fleabay that's already been cleaned up and rebuilt.
                          sigpic
                          Parts Wanted
                          The Never-ending Resto Mod

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                            #28
                            Originally posted by blocke View Post
                            What does RC charge for a set of 6?
                            I'm currently using 17.5 lb green tops, but my miller MAF conversion calls for 19lb. Depending on cost, I may just buy one of the yellow top sets off fleabay that's already been cleaned up and rebuilt.
                            The last set I had done cost $25/injector.
                            The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                            Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

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