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    NOISY ticking

    so i bought my car like 3 months ago. and i noticed it had valve/lifter tick. so about two weeks ago i adjusted the valves. started it up and still have the ticking. its honestly unbearable. so i double checked it myself and even tripled checked it with a friend. while i was triple checking with my friend. i noticed a few of the rocker arms were able to move from the eccentric side to the camshaft. would this be the cause of my lifter/valve tick? my head looks very clean. would i need new rocker arm clips or w/e?

    thanks :)
    Originally posted by evandael
    a car is a car. call it a dildo, i'd still drive the hell out of it.

    #2
    make sure the cam lobes are facing down toward the cylinder when you measure them.

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      #3
      Yea don't worry did that. Lol like I said I triple checked and adjusted it twice to make it perfect
      Originally posted by evandael
      a car is a car. call it a dildo, i'd still drive the hell out of it.

      Comment


        #4
        do you have the rocker arm clips on? Did you check the engine hot or cold? Also make sure the cam spray bar is clean and lubricating them properly. M20's do have a noticeable tick but it shouldn't be as loud as you make it seem. What weight oil are you using?
        '87 325ic, powered by S50.

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          #5
          5w30 till it gets warmer out. all the clips are on. i did it with the engine warm. .30 on the feeler gauge. if all the above are correct. i would need new clips?
          Originally posted by evandael
          a car is a car. call it a dildo, i'd still drive the hell out of it.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by hooken m View Post
            i did it with the engine warm. .30 on the feeler gauge.
            this is your problem. Do it cold.
            Much wow
            I hate 4 doors

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
              this is your problem. Do it cold.
              +1, always do valve work on a cold engine
              '90 325is DD, 5 spd swap-H&R springs-Euro Headlight Fully Built OBD1 M54b30. Ox Blood interior, 3.46 LSD with Z3M Diff Cover. Custom shifter, every bushing replaced.
              '86 325e- Donor car for swap/parts car
              '00 323i- BBS 197s Totalted
              '89 740 turbo Volvo- Donated

              Comment


                #8
                Yep, and .30 is too much even on a hot engine. Where did you get that number from?
                Go .10 on a stone cold engine
                And the thinest oil you should run is 5w40, even in cold weather

                Sent from my Ally using Tapatalk
                1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

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                  #9
                  problem solved ;-)
                  '87 325ic, powered by S50.

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                    #10
                    i got .30 hot and .25 cold from the bently manual :/ and i will do .10 this weekend. i'll let you guys know how it goes. thus far thanks for the replies
                    Originally posted by evandael
                    a car is a car. call it a dildo, i'd still drive the hell out of it.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Great thread. My 84 325e is clatterring like an Isuzu rodeo, and I was going to use the Bentley manual as my guide. Really glad to know the clearances listed there are wrong.

                      Are they the same for the e head as well?
                      "If the shoe fits, it must be the right size"
                      "Is God willing to prevent evil, but not able? Then he is not omnipotent. Is he able, but not willing? Then he is malevolent. Is he both able and willing? Then whence cometh evil? Is he neither able nor willing? Then why call him God?" -Epicurus

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                        #12
                        The Bentley numbers are correct, .3mm hot and .25mm cold. If the head is in very good condition (very low mileage or recently rebuilt) you can go tighter on the valves (.15mm intake and .20 exhaust cold). But if the valves tick when adjusted to .3mm cold the cause is probably worn guides and adjusting them tighter is neither a good idea nor is it likely to make the valves quiet.
                        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                        Comment


                          #13
                          ah-ha! thats the issue

                          .25mm = .010 in

                          .30mm = .012 in
                          1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by SpecM View Post
                            ah-ha! thats the issue

                            .25mm = .010 in

                            .30mm = .012 in
                            Beat me to it... the mm/in confusion happens all the time
                            sigpic

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Woulf View Post
                              Great thread. My 84 325e is clatterring like an Isuzu rodeo, and I was going to use the Bentley manual as my guide. Really glad to know the clearances listed there are wrong.

                              Are they the same for the e head as well?
                              the eta engine will always chatter. even when done right. but yes, same numbers as the I.
                              Much wow
                              I hate 4 doors

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