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    Rough running, little strange. Video

    CEL is on.
    Car runs retarded rich on idle
    OBC reads 9.5mpg, and I've been driving very conservatively. I know the OBC isn't accurate at all, but in comparison I was doing 19mpg city according to OBC before.
    Idle is a little rough.
    Stumble on WOT
    Timing is correct
    When the engine is completely cold in the morning, I can turn it on and it will idle normally, at like 1500rpm since it's cold. It sounds great, then in about 2 minutes or so the RPM's drop completely and the car will idle at around 200rpm and wants to die. I have to keep the car revving until it gets warm, then it could hold idle, but rough.
    Spark plug color is normal
    No OBVIOUS vaccum leaks, I sprayed down every where where they would be a leak and nothing, except on the ICV port where I fixed that.

    things i've tried diagnosing:
    I adjusted the TPS so it "clicks," nothing.
    I removed the dipstick while it was idling, and the idle stayed the same.
    I removed the oil cap while idling and the idle stayed the same.
    I rewired the C191 while doing my head, so I thought I might have screwed something up. I know the injectors are wired right since the wires are different from the temp sensors, but when I remove the blue sensor connection on the thermostat housing (coolant temp sender?) nothing happens. the car stays the same, the temp reads the same.
    additionally, when I unplug the O2 sensor, the car still idles and feels the same and everything.

    When I'm going on lets say, 3rd gear, at a relatively low cruising rpm, there will be SUPER SUPER slight moderate hesitations that would only be noticeable to me but no one else.




    Help r3v!
    Originally posted by TSI
    ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
    OEM+

    #2
    :yawn:
    My gas mileage is awful by the way. $5 regular will take me out of the gas reserve light for literally 5 minutes or so. when I'm idling, I can see my OBC sharply decline and I can probably let it get as low as 6MPG if i tried. I actually gain MPG's on the OBC when I'm WOT when it's on 7MPG haha
    Originally posted by TSI
    ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
    OEM+

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post

      CEL is on.
      What does the stomp test tell you?

      Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post
      Idle is a little rough.
      Stumble on WOT

      When the engine is completely cold in the morning, I can turn it on and it will idle normally, at like 1500rpm since it's cold. It sounds great, then in about 2 minutes or so the RPM's drop completely and the car will idle at around 200rpm and wants to die. I have to keep the car revving until it gets warm, then it could hold idle, but rough.
      This screams vacuum leak


      Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post
      I adjusted the TPS so it "clicks,"
      Check for continuity with an ohm-meter or test-light for both the idle and full throttle switches.

      Originally posted by lolcantturn View Post

      I removed the dipstick while it was idling, and the idle stayed the same.
      I removed the oil cap while idling and the idle stayed the same.
      strange, my car stalls out or nearly stalls out when I remove either, could it be safe to say that there is a significant enough vac. leak to where removing these items doesnt affect it? Try removing the oil tube and plugging it with your thumb, try removing the oil cap and palming it/ sealing it off with your hand (unless its stupid hot). I know that a new oil cap fixed one of my vac leaks.

      Don't forget about the vac. line underneath the throttle body, the PCV hose running under the manifold to the valve cover, and other places.


      I will let Jlevie suggest the smoke test :-)

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Sagaris View Post
        What does the stomp test tell you?



        This screams vacuum leak



        Check for continuity with an ohm-meter or test-light for both the idle and full throttle switches.



        strange, my car stalls out or nearly stalls out when I remove either, could it be safe to say that there is a significant enough vac. leak to where removing these items doesnt affect it? Try removing the oil tube and plugging it with your thumb, try removing the oil cap and palming it/ sealing it off with your hand (unless its stupid hot). I know that a new oil cap fixed one of my vac leaks.

        Don't forget about the vac. line underneath the throttle body, the PCV hose running under the manifold to the valve cover, and other places.


        I will let Jlevie suggest the smoke test :-)
        Stomp test is nonexistant, I has 153 DME :(

        And I agree, it might be a vaccumm leak. Could I have a vac leak from the bitch tube? I almost feel like I didn't install it right/ perhaps the o-ring fell off.
        the TPS shows resistance up to spec.

        I'd like to do a smoke test, but I'm not sure how much those cost to do.
        Originally posted by TSI
        ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
        OEM+

        Comment


          #5
          One more thing, it actually might be my bitch tube not sealing and creating a huge vacuum. My intake is lined with a lot of oil so I'm assuming it's not returning
          Originally posted by TSI
          ♫ Rust flecks are falling on my head...♫
          OEM+

          Comment

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