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test drove the car for an hour and never climbed past 12 oclock on gauge. all good. thank ForcedFirebird for you help. now can anyone tell me if there is a viable radiator swap for the old m20 that is more rows than OEM? -
ok rented a cooling system tester for refundable deposit only. tested at the expansion tank and sure enough at 10+ lbs the left radiator tank started whistling and bubbling. forgot to add I had bought rad from the yard to replace the one the PO had installed. the reason being the one he used was wrong year and auto to boot. I had gotten the correct one for 86 m20 with manual. any way I fixed the lower L brackets to use the old one without Ty wraps and refilled. tested and held for 15 minute at 15 lbs.Leave a comment:
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you mean the tool that screws on to the cap\or tank with the small hand pump?Leave a comment:
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Need to pressure test the system, if it's not pressurizing the water will boil. You can rent the tool at the parts store.Leave a comment:
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overheating m20
:(ok guys i just did the timing belt, waterpump and t-stat.car starts and runs smooth but if i taker her out she,s overheating within 4 blocks of driving with no WOT at all. main fan spins and only stops with magazine after serious effort. aux fan is bypassed at high speed side so its full on when key on. both upper hose reachtemp quick but lower takes time after overheat all three are hot to touch. i bled the system before testing both cold then at op.temp. no air in system. only thing i can think is that the new STANT t-stat 175deg.F. has no by-pass hole at all. I know this because I bought 2. one for initial install and run with water and flush mix to clear old crud out. then 1 for when i drain and fill with 50\50 and water wetter + put on my new silicone hoses. cna anyone comment on the t-stat issue? should i drill the bypass hole and if so what size? i know i can order an oem tstat but want to see if quicker solution.
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