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need help 1987 325i vert

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    need help 1987 325i vert

    I'm having problems with my car idling it quits if i don't hold the gas down for at least 1k rpm for five minutes. After this it idles fine the old ICV is hooked up but it is broken. If i hook the new one up it idles at 2k rpm. I found the below article
    http://www.rickk.net/i/drive/bmw-e30-325i-motronic-10-information/
    And i got to hear

    "If the valve seems to be okay, turn on the ignition measure the current from
    the ecu to the valve at the connector:
    • between the inner pin and ground there should be battery voltage
    • between any outer pin and the inner pin there should be around 10V
    If these values are off, something is wrong with the ECU, or something is wrong with a signal to the ECU. The signal to the outer pins comes from ECU pins 33 and 34, the inner pin is fed from somewhere else (sorry, haven’t trace this wire)."

    And i determined that the valve Conector that connects to the ICV does not have any Volts at all.

    So does this mean my ECU/DME is bad? is there a way to check ECU pin 33 and 34?

    Please advise

    I did some more research and found out that it could be the Idle
    idle control unit. I can't find one on the net for my car only the 325e. So I guess I don't have one, which leads me to beleive that it is the DME.

    I have a DME for a E36 can I swap the chips and use it in my car?
    The dme that I have for a e36 has part numbe 0261200402 and it has A brownish Red sticker

    #2
    From my understanding, the ICV's natural position is fully open and regulation of idle speed comes through the valve closing. Two quick things I would recommend looking for:

    1) Rips in the intake boot and other intake leaks that would give the car too much air since if you have a good ICV, it could be closing enough to get the idle air/fuel mixture down to a reasonable amount that will let the car run.

    2) I would also recommend checking the throttle position sensor underneath the throttle body. Check for continuity on 2 of the 3 pins when the throttle is closed/at idle with the car off. I cant remember which ones they are but there are only 3 different ways to check continuity on 3 pins and you seem to be competent enough to manage. If there is continuity, then great! your idle switch is working and the ECU understands that your car is trying to idle. It is still possible after checking those items that the ECU is bad.

    I would be very shocked if an e36 ECU worked on an e30 you have the differences of AFM vs. MAF , VANOS, and additional on board diagnostics on the e36 which are why I wouldn't consider attempting it. it would really suck to fry something.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Sagaris View Post
      From my understanding, the ICV's natural position is fully open and regulation of idle speed comes through the valve closing. Two quick things I would recommend looking for:

      1) Rips in the intake boot and other intake leaks that would give the car too much air since if you have a good ICV, it could be closing enough to get the idle air/fuel mixture down to a reasonable amount that will let the car run.

      2) I would also recommend checking the throttle position sensor underneath the throttle body. Check for continuity on 2 of the 3 pins when the throttle is closed/at idle with the car off. I cant remember which ones they are but there are only 3 different ways to check continuity on 3 pins and you seem to be competent enough to manage. If there is continuity, then great! your idle switch is working and the ECU understands that your car is trying to idle. It is still possible after checking those items that the ECU is bad.

      I would be very shocked if an e36 ECU worked on an e30 you have the differences of AFM vs. MAF , VANOS, and additional on board diagnostics on the e36 which are why I wouldn't consider attempting it. it would really suck to fry something.
      I got a brande new TPS so i dont think that would be the issue.

      I checked the three pin connecter that connects to the ICV. I turned the ignition on then i checked one of the outside pin to one of the inside pin i got nothing but when i check one of the out side pin and run the black wire of my MultiMeter to one of the bolts to the shock i get 3.11 V.

      wouldn’t this mean that it is the connector and not the ICV?

      Comment

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